Front stick wire exit

[crabandy]

Not sure how different the 7 is from the 8, but I was surprised to see how well it worked running the wires out the bottom of the stick. I used dsub pins in heat shrink as a disconnect point, doubled up the heatshrink and it fit nicely between the 2rod end bearings. I doubled it back onto the lower control stick, wrapped it with silicone tape and secured it to a "node" on the other wiring behind the spar.






Since my copilot stick was removable I did like previous posters and ran the wires out if the stick but under the stick boot

[RV7A Flyer]

Originally Posted by Paul Tuttle

I drilled the stick just under the grip and ran the wire down the front of the stick.
Can't see the wire. As stated in other posts, the further from the pivot point the better.

If this is done, it will interfere with the Anti-Splat Aero gust lock mechanism (probably not an issue for taildraggers, but for us nosegear guys...different story).

Just an FYI.

[DanH]

The OP has an RV8 stick, which nothing like the stick from a side-by-side model. Can't run the wires out the bottom.

Weld on a reinforcement patch above the pivot and drill as desired.

[BillL]

Originally Posted by DanH

The OP has an RV8 stick, which nothing like the stick from a side-by-side model. Can't run the wires out the bottom.

Weld on a reinforcement patch above the pivot and drill as desired.

Perfect!!!

[glenn654]

Has there ever been an incident of a stick breaking anywhere?

Glenn Wilkinson

[Blain]

Originally Posted by DanH

The OP has an RV8 stick, which nothing like the stick from a side-by-side model. Can't run the wires out the bottom.

Weld on a reinforcement patch above the pivot and drill as desired.

Would you Tig that, Dan?

[DanH]

Originally Posted by Blain

Would you Tig that, Dan?

Did tig that, but O/A is fine too.

[Blain]

Questioned Vans and got a response. Too late for me, I had already made my decision. But as a conclusion to this thread I thought I would pass it on.

Copy of email;
Sorry for the delayed response, I finally got word back on this from the engineers. They will
allow a 1/4 inch hole (no larger, smaller is preferred) on the forward side of the stick just
above the cross tube. I have take pictures of what we have on our RV-8, this hole is 3 3/4 up
form the bottom of the stick. See attached picture.

Sterling


BTW, I put a 1/4" hole on the aft side about the same height as suggested. Will probably plate it per Dan H. diagram. Seems that there would be less tensle stress on the aft side but I'm no engineer......and they probably wouldn't endorse a bent stick either.

[maus92]

Originally Posted by DanH

The OP has an RV8 stick, which nothing like the stick from a side-by-side model. Can't run the wires out the bottom.

Weld on a reinforcement patch above the pivot and drill as desired.

The Infinity grip cable is fat, so something has to be done. I was thinking about welding some bar stock or possibly even a sleeve to "double" the area where the cabling exits the stick, but the patch seems to me to be the most elegant solution.

[Robert Anglin]

Originally Posted by Blain

Questioned Vans and got a response. Too late for me, I had already made my decision. But as a conclusion to this thread I thought I would pass it on.

Copy of email;
Sorry for the delayed response, I finally got word back on this from the engineers. They will
allow a 1/4 inch hole (no larger, smaller is preferred) on the forward side of the stick just
above the cross tube. I have take pictures of what we have on our RV-8, this hole is 3 3/4 up
form the bottom of the stick. See attached picture.

Sterling


BTW, I put a 1/4" hole on the aft side about the same height as suggested. Will probably plate it per Dan H. diagram. Seems that there would be less tensle stress on the aft side but I'm no engineer......and they probably wouldn't endorse a bent stick either.

Ok, this is what I have used over the years and seen no problems with. If you are concerned with a stress crack starting from the edges of this small hole. I offer an old trick that works to make this area of a tube much stronger without welding. Take two strips of .040 or .050, 4130 about 3 inches long. form them into a sleeve that will fit around half of the stick tube.
notch out for the through bushing weld, drill a hole to match the place you drilled the hole in the stick. Leave a little slack between the two along the edges wear they come together, maybe 1/8" or so. Make sure you round and be-burr everything, prime it all as you wish. Put your two fish plate you just made onto each side. Then take some .032-.021 safety wire and spool it around the stack-up with a good pull on the wire while you rap it around. You could cut a peace say 4 foot and put one end into a vice, then spool and rap to make a nice looking wind. This method has been used for thousands of years and there is no telling who came up with it so, if you like it as I have at times and you get concerned about a stress riser in this little hole, you may wish to give it a try. Hope this helps. R.E.A. III # 80888