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12-10-2014, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 212
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Visit KAJO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Allen
I'm looking at building a 7A and I'm curious if I'll fit. I'm 6 foot 4 inches tall. Anyone else that height building or flying a 7A? Your thoughts would be appreciated.
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Hi Steve,
I am 6'4", 240# and have a flying RV7 based at KAJO (Corona, CA). I made a few adjustments while building to accommodate my size and the airplane is cozy but very comfortable.
If you are going to be in the Corona area on a weekend, we can make arrangements to meet at the airport so you can try it on for size. I'm sure we can even arrange a little stick time.
Good luck,
Jake
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12-10-2014, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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Also did the almost 14 mod during the build. For me it was for comfort, and plenty of head room for the anticipated turbalance.
__________________
7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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12-10-2014, 07:01 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 53
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Not trying to derail the thread but how would the 7 compare to a 6 for a 6'3"er? Understand the seat pan is a little lower on the 6. Found the 7 very tight for head to canopy clearance.
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12-11-2014, 12:30 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Aust.
Posts: 820
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I'm 6' 5 1/2", 190lbs (on a good day!) and fit my QB-9 beautifully. All I did was move the rudder pedals up to the longeron gusset, but it would have been fine per plans.
__________________
Once you have tasted flight you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return - Leonardo DaVinci
My Flickr gallery: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35521362@N06/
RV-9A - Finished on 10th February 2016 after 4 years, 9 months and 19 days! The 1020th RV-9 flying.
First flight 26th March 2016. Essential specs 145KTAS @ 2400RPM, 8000', 24.2LPH, Initial RoC 1800FPM.
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12-11-2014, 10:59 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 689
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Steve,
I am at the opposite end of the spectrum. I'm 5' 4" and was worried. Until I got in an RV7 for myself and saw the peddles and position of the stick, I was worried. Once I had the opportunity to sit in a -9A and a -7A all of my worries faded away. Actually, now that I think of it, that was my last check box item to cross off before I ordered my tail.
__________________
Gil Brice
McKinney, TX EAA-1246
RV7 - Working on fuse, fuel, brakes etc...
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12-16-2014, 11:22 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cervelott
Not trying to derail the thread but how would the 7 compare to a 6 for a 6'3"er? Understand the seat pan is a little lower on the 6. Found the 7 very tight for head to canopy clearance.
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Actually, the seat to canopy height is greater in the 7 than the 6 by a noticeable amount...the seat pan ribs are lower in the 7 (1.5"s statistically speakin).....so for us taller folks I like the cabin of the -7 slightly better, but also loved the 6's we've built as well. Either way you'll be happy!
Cheers,
Stein
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12-17-2014, 12:42 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,670
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And perhaps more important than the rib height is the cushion height. It is easy to reduce the thickness of the seat-bottom cushion to increase your head clearance.
And I never fail to recommend the "Almost a -14" mod from Anti-splat aero, who advertise on VAF. That mod creates space for "Bubbas" like me.
One Bubba's opinion, and YMMV, etc.
__________________
Pete Hunt, [San Diego] VAF #1069
RV-6, RV-6A, T-6G
ATP, CFII, A&P
2020 Donation+, Gladly Sent
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12-17-2014, 05:02 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ridgeland, SC
Posts: 2,589
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Gil and I have the same issue. I figured I could move the pedals aft, and the seat hinge on the floor forward, have Abby make a booster  seat so I'd be comfortable. Once the fuse kit dot here, I clecoed alot of the forward cabin together to see what I was going to have to change to be able to fit in it. I dont see a bunch of stuff right now. I'll have to sneek down to the other hangar and jump in Ray's RV7A and really check it out!
Advantage of have 2 similar model planes under construction at the same time.
Tom
__________________
Tom Swearengen, TS Flightlines LLC, AS Flightlines
Joint Venture with Aircraft Specialty
Teflon Hose Assemblies for Experimentals
Proud Vendor for RV1, Donator to VAF
RV7 Tail Kit Completed, Fuse started-Pay as I go Plan
Ridgeland, SC
www.tsflightlines.com, www.asflightlines.com
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12-17-2014, 06:50 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,189
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I'll have to clear out some parts and run that test myself too, Tom. I like the idea of reclining the seat more and figured the forward hinge position would help with that but that will require the appropriate pedal distance for my height (5' 8").
I've read others mention the ability to re-position their pedals and have been wondering how that affects pedal controls / cable tension.
__________________
Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines (aka Hoser)
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12-17-2014, 02:17 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymo
I've read others mention the ability to re-position their pedals and have been wondering how that affects pedal controls / cable tension.
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This is really not a problem (other than the huge pain of being under there to do it), because you typically attach the actual pedal mechanism to the actual rudder cables with little steel links. Some folks fabricate them with multiple holes in them so they can just change the "length", others will just keep a few sets of different length links around if they do decide to change them. The only caveat is to make sure you have full pedal throw before one of them hits the firewall.
While this is a task that can be done (need to have the variable holes in the longerons already drilled), it is not an easy, fun, or fast task. I say adjust them for your own size (while maybe thinking about some future adjustment), and let the next owner/pilot deal with it. You can easily ad blocks onto the pedals (in fact I think JD Air makes some nice bolt on pedal extensions) if you have some shorter pilots. It's much easier to do that then it is to move the pedals.
The RV8 is a different story, those can be made "adjustable" (manually) in a much easier way.
Cheers,
Stein
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