VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #1  
Old 12-04-2014, 10:42 AM
JDBoston JDBoston is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 284
Default Flap Nose Skin

Each new section seems to introduce a structure I am unfamiliar with, so I will ask this basic question:

When assembling the flap should I expect a bit of "preload" or force needed in order to make the top part of the nose skin line up with the nose ribs (and top of the spar) and cleco the assembly together? The rest of the structure seems to come together pretty well however once you slide the nose skin on from the bottom, you then need to push quite a bit in order to get the holes lined up with the top portion. It also seems like there is a little bit of a gap between the skin and the rib below as you need to drill holes into the rib using the skin as a guide.

Hopefully that was clear. Anyone else have this issue?

I am also a bit paranoid about twist, and how to identify it and prevent it as I assemble.

Thanks
__________________
Jeff

RV-14A
Status: Wings complete(ish), Working on: Empennage. Fuselage kit on order
Location:MA
http://vans14a.blogspot.com/

Last edited by JDBoston : 12-04-2014 at 11:27 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-04-2014, 05:13 PM
agirard7a's Avatar
agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 705
Default Flap nose skin

Jeff. I built the ugliest aileron known to man! On my 9a.
I had to chuck it and build another one. The upward force
Of the pre-bent nose skin unclamped before riveting to the spar,
created upward force and tweeked and twisted the trailing edge in the worst way. When you bend the leading edge down to the spar, put a board the full length and clamp it down. Clamp the trailing edge down to a flat surface and glue with 3m 5200 quick cure purchased from HOme Depot. 5200 is an amazingly strong marine sealant. Use gloves! It's equally bad as pro seal to deal with. The trailing edge ends up straight as an arrow. My recommendation is glue
The trailing edge before riveting.
__________________
Al Girard, Newport, RI
N339AG
RV-9
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-08-2014, 09:32 AM
JDBoston JDBoston is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 284
Default

Thanks Al. Hope all is well.

It is my first time dealing with a nose skin as most of the other surfaces so far are nose/large skins where there is not much preload at all.

I took it apart again as some of my problem was the clecos holding together some of the rib assemblies getting in the way. On the second time assembling there was less force needed although more than I would have expected. I think I am all set now though.
__________________
Jeff

RV-14A
Status: Wings complete(ish), Working on: Empennage. Fuselage kit on order
Location:MA
http://vans14a.blogspot.com/
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-08-2014, 11:28 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
Default

On my RV-3B, this is how I prevent twist in the surfaces - I made a jig:



The jig is simply two pieces of plywood with vee cuts to match the surface, mounted on a piece of plywood that I could shim to get the vees aligned.

Dave
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:48 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.