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  #11  
Old 12-04-2014, 12:19 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVDan View Post
Have checked ambient temps and temps under the cowl and typically see a 20 to 25 deree rise over ambient.
I can confirm these numbers. Each 75 watt bulb I put in the cowl increased my engine temperature by about 15F. Thus, I can count on two bulbs warming everything up by 25-30F above ambient. This is more than adequate for any but the coldest of days.

The additional upside to this method: it warms up everything, not just one or two places on the engine. The downside: it does take a bit longer, though contrary to what someone mentioned above, it most definitely does not need to be left on all the time. I generally need a few hours to get it warmed up 30F, less time if I don't need it warmed up that much. That said, nothing that a remote switchbox doesn't address.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 12-04-2014 at 12:23 PM.
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  #12  
Old 12-04-2014, 12:34 PM
odens_14 odens_14 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Alexandria, MN
Posts: 304
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I use a pair of pad heaters from this company on my rv but since this is on a certified bird: can you reach the bottom of the engine to stick a magnetic heater like this on? This would be more heat and seems safer to me than a lightbulb + it would be connected to what you're wanting to heat vs. just heating the air.

http://smile.amazon.com/Kats-1153-Ha...c+block+heater

they also have a 300 watt unit for a little more that would obviously be even quicker
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Last edited by odens_14 : 12-04-2014 at 04:14 PM.
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  #13  
Old 12-04-2014, 01:02 PM
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phillipny phillipny is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 469
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Hey guys, download the free update if you're using the switchbox

http://switchboxcontrol.com/iphone-app-free/
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  #14  
Old 12-04-2014, 02:41 PM
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Omega232Devils Omega232Devils is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Catawba, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
The downside: it does take a bit longer, though contrary to what someone mentioned above, it most definitely does not need to be left on all the time. I generally need a few hours to get it warmed up 30F, less time if I don't need it warmed up that much. That said, nothing that a remote switchbox doesn't address.
I'm not sure anyone was saying it needed to be left on full time, but the OP was looking for economical solutions, therefore rules out a switch box or similar. Unless the OP lives with his plane and can walk out and plug it in when he wants to fly, then leaving it on full time is the answer.
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  #15  
Old 12-04-2014, 03:21 PM
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PerfTech PerfTech is offline
 
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Location: Redlands, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10sakota View Post
I want to be able to pre-heat my engine for winter ops.

I'm looking at installing the Reiff cylinder bands and oil pan heater at a cost of $435.

I've heard about people placing a protected 100W light bulb in the engine compartment to pre-heat the engine. Maybe it's even left on all the time?

Has anyone used the light bulb method before? Does it work?

Note: this installation will be on my Piper Cherokee so I can't use the "non-aviation lower priced stick-on heater pad alternatives!"
... If you are looking for an economical solution to this problem that addresses every aspect stated, here it is. Go to this provided link and purchase one of these. They are available in several wattages from 50 to 500, they are temperature adjustable to about 100 degrees F. and are almost free, ($7.00 or so). They are available in many different lengths, are made of indestructible stainless steel, are very reliable and last virtually for ever. To use, just open the oil door, remove the oil dipstick, insert heater in place of dipstick down the tube submerging it in the oil, plug it in, set it and forget it. If the outside temperature drops it can be easily turned up to accommodate it. You can also enhance this package with a very inexpensive, digital, seven day programmable controller to turn it on and off at any schedule you so desire. The complete package for less than $25 bucks. I have used these many many times over the years and they are hard to beat. If this said AIRPLANE on it somewhere it would cost $500 or more. Wow! I should put a sticker on them and start selling them for $450. Thanks, Allan...
SEE LINKS; **removed**
SEARCH; Submersible Water Stainless Steel Heater Heating Rod for Aquarium Fish Tank
SEARCH; 12-24-Hours-7-Days-Minute-Programmable-Digital-Timer-Socket-Outlet-Switch-Plug
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Last edited by PerfTech : 12-05-2014 at 08:32 AM.
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  #16  
Old 12-04-2014, 03:29 PM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
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I use a 60 watt bulb in the oil door, sump heater not sure of the watts.
2 teardrop shaped 40 watt bulbs up the exhaust pipes.
Shipping blanket over the cowl with the corners stuffed in
The front cowl vents. I have the system on a timer. Would be
Better with a cell switch. It's very warm under the cowl when I shut it all down.
I'm guessing 70-80 after only a few hours.
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2014, 07:08 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Location: Dayton, NV
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I've been using a 100 watt bulb in a utility light and a good blanket for OAT's down in the high teens for years - just leave it plugged in overnight, and I see 65-75 degree oil on start-up. As mentioned, it warms the whole engine compartment, not just oil. Takes less than a minute to set it up the night before I want to fly - I've got two of three airplanes set up that way right now, tonight...because I MIGHT fly in the morning, and don't know which airplane. Yes, it costs a few pennies of electricity to just leave them on - but the hardware costs almost nothing, and it is just dirt simple.

If I was still living in Minnesota? Probably not going to be adequate....
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RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
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RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2014, 08:19 PM
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Neal@F14 Neal@F14 is offline
 
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I've seen a 100w drop light cause a heat bubble in a fiberglass lower cowl of an RV. Ouch.
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Airplaneless once again...
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2014, 08:42 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neal@F14 View Post
I've seen a 100w drop light cause a heat bubble in a fiberglass lower cowl of an RV. Ouch.
I put mine up through the cowl exit and hang it on a carb fitting or cable to keep it from resting on the cowl. Just common sense.
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Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2014, 09:13 PM
gerrychuck gerrychuck is offline
 
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Location: Moose Jaw, SK, Canada
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I used to use a small 1500w forced air utility heater ($30) with a length of dryer hose (or scat tubing) taped onto the outlet and run up into the outlet opening on the underside of the cowl, and another length run from one of the front cooling inlets back into the intake side of the heater. The other cooling inlet plugged with foam. With this little system recirculating the heat it would warm my engine up to where the oil temp would be 80 degrees on startup in a couple of hours in any temps I could make myself fly in (down to about -20c, or below zero f) I used a phone activated switch much like the Switchbox system to turn it on from home; roll over in bed, send the text, roll back over for a few more z's, get up and have coffee, and by the time I got to the hangar she was good to go.

I say "used to" use this system, because my hangar is now heated and insulated, and my plane is always at a nice 50f no matter when I show up. Luxury.

One word of caution; keep the heater off the ground - there have been instances of fuel leaks resulting in fumes on the floor being ignited by heaters like this. I always kept it on a platform about 2' up just to be safe.
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