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12-04-2014, 08:59 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 311
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Lightbulb engine pre-heater?
I want to be able to pre-heat my engine for winter ops.
I'm looking at installing the Reiff cylinder bands and oil pan heater at a cost of $435.
I've heard about people placing a protected 100W light bulb in the engine compartment to pre-heat the engine. Maybe it's even left on all the time?
Has anyone used the light bulb method before? Does it work?
Note: this installation will be on my Piper Cherokee so I can't use the "non-aviation lower priced stick-on heater pad alternatives!"
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12-04-2014, 09:14 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10sakota
Has anyone used the light bulb method before? Does it work?
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Yep, used to do it often with my old Stinson.
Put an old blanket over the cowl, and plug the cooling inlets.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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12-04-2014, 09:17 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S
Yep, used to do it often with my old Stinson.
Put an old blanket over the cowl, and plug the cooling inlets.
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Second this. Many times, more complicated solutions don't bring greater returns.
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12-04-2014, 09:18 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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I've heard of folks using the 100W bulb method, and yes, it requires being on all the time. The intakes need to be plugged to accumulate any warmth in the cowl area.
As a very happy Reiff user, I recommend you spend the big bucks and go that route. You'll never regret it. Coupled with a Switchbox, it removes a major impediment - perhaps THE major impediment - to winter flying.
__________________
Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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12-04-2014, 09:26 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 1,614
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swtichbox
Light bulbs are pretty anemic. Reiff or Tannis or an oil pan heater are going to put concentrated heat where you need it.
Last year I left my oil pan heater on all the time... but did see some moisture collecting at the top of the engine. I use Camguard... but changed habits this year. Bought the switchbox while on sale... just the simple unit.
Now, I walk over to the iphone while up for a pee in the night... and turn on the oil pan heat. At morning coffee, I push the other button and a space heater comes on in the cockpit. Arriving at the hangar, outside air temp around 25 and the RV is eager and ready to fly. The engine sounds entirely different (O320) for the first ten minutes than a cold start.
__________________
"Kindness is never a bad plan."
exemption option waived. Donation appropriate.
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12-04-2014, 09:46 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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One nice use for the Reiff-type sump heater is that it only takes a short time to warm the oil up when you want to change it. Just plug it in and when the oil picked up by the dipstick is warm, shut the heater off and drain the oil.
Works a charm.
Dave
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12-04-2014, 10:39 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Catawba, NC
Posts: 318
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Light bulbs work great.
I used 2x75-100w bulbs during my short time in New England two years ago. I put two moving (purchased from local Uhaul storage facility) blankets over the cowling, put intake plugs in and dropped the lights down the oil door, leaving them on the whole time. I would always arrive to the hangar with cylinders above 80deg and Oil temps above 100 on first start.
The system was very easy, very economical. Two 'drop lights' from home depot, $12. And I used 3 bulbs over the 5-6mo winter season ~$5.
I was only in New England for a year and knew that I would be coming back to the west coast, so an investment in a more permanent system did not make sense economically. However, if I were to live a cold environment longer, I think it is a sound investment. Then you get into the discussion of leaving those systems on all the time or just using remote switches to warm it up when you intend to fly. Condensation is the foe and the only real cure is to 'FLY MORE!'
YMMV
Dan
__________________
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dan Thompson
RV-6A - N426JM - 180hp / C.S. / dual PMags
NC26 - Long Island Airpark, NC
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12-04-2014, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,508
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I am using a $150 EZ-Heat sump heater from Aircraft Spruce. Did an EAA Tech Counselor visit to an RV-9A project this week. At the project, I learned about Wolverine Heaters that are used on Farm and Utility equipment. The builder recommended the Model 16 in 120V for use on our RV aircraft. The builder has built several other amateur built aircraft. I am not sure but I think my EZ-Heater is 300 W. The 250 W Model 16 would be a close replacement for 1/2 the cost.
Maybe others may have a source of similar heaters for our Experimental RV sumps. The light bulb would be less expensive but some of us like a more refined solution.
__________________
Gary A. Sobek
NC25 RV-6 Flying
3,400+ hours
Where is N157GS
Building RV-8 S/N: 80012
To most people, the sky is the limit.
To those who love aviation, the sky is home.
Last edited by RV6_flyer : 12-04-2014 at 10:54 AM.
Reason: grammar
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12-04-2014, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 821
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I have used two 75 watt light bulb method with blankets for about 20 years on aircraft in unheated hangars. Have checked ambient temps and temps under the cowl and typically see a 20 to 25 deree rise over ambient. This covers me for most of my flying. Since it is the entire under cowl area, the entire engine is at or about that temp which I think may be better than just the pad heater. The bulbs do burn out and that results in a colder engine than desired.
That said, I just ordered two-75 watt heat pads to put on a heat sink and place under cowl in place of the bulbs. The only cost $50 for the 2. I will be experimenting with the heat sinks and ambient temps and might report results when done, if winter isn't over first.
__________________
Dan Morris
Frederick, MD
PA28-140
Hph 304CZ
RV6 built and sold
N199EC RV6A flying
Learn the facts. "Democracy dies in darkness"
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12-04-2014, 11:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Liberty Twp, OH
Posts: 641
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If you can snag it away from the Mrs. without causing a domestic incident, take a hair dryer on high stuck in the inlet cowl, then plug up the inlets. Leave alone for about 15 minutes. Hey, if it can preheat a 310hp Connie on the Cirrus I rent, it can work for our RVs.  Don't even need the blanket on top the cowl, though that certainly doesn't hurt.
__________________
Scott Balmos - RV-9A N112SB
Cincinnati, OH, KHAO
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