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11-26-2014, 03:04 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B.
By the description it sounds like this is a crucial structure so I did not drill it out.
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That's good, because the proper technique for removing a rivet does not including "drilling it out" (at least not in the traditional sense that most people are thinking of).
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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11-26-2014, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,408
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You still need a drill and a drill bit, I call that drilling out a rivet. First you drill with a bit the size of the rivet, close to the material being riveted together, thru manufactured head,(stop before reaching the piece being riveted) then you break off that head. Then using a little smaller bit , drill into the center of the shank to a point past the material being riveted but not all the way, this takes the stress out of the rivet and you carefully pull on the shop head removing the remainder.
Still sounds like drilling to me.
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Thanks Ron
RV-10 SOLD
RV-14 Flying
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11-26-2014, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002
That's good, because the proper technique for removing a rivet does not including "drilling it out" (at least not in the traditional sense that most people are thinking of).
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For that matter, shooting a rivet does not involve a rifle. Let's not start one of those threads.
I know its called a rivet gun.
Unlikely you will get a cherry in there, the mandrel is probably going to hit the upright preventing full insertion of the cherry.
Last edited by paul mosher : 11-26-2014 at 09:55 PM.
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11-26-2014, 11:15 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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Poor use of words on my part apparently.... to a lot of people, when they say drill out a rivet, they mean it literally.
Ron made it sound like he didn't feel like it was safe to remove these rivets. All I meant was that done properly, it is no more of an issue than most others (but everyone needs to make that decision on there own).
Ron is right... the instructions are very specific.... but the specifics will be changed to correct this minor glitch so then there will be new specifics that will describe the assembly order differently.
My comment was out of concern that others would think they could set an 1/8 " rivet satisfactorily with the tip of a screw driver as a bucking bar. I have been doing this type of work for a long time... I know that the results will not be good.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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11-27-2014, 06:19 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 612
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I sent Van's a note on this a week or more ago but got no reply. So I bought some Cherry rivets that I plan to use for that spot. Being that they used AN426AD4 sized rivets, I wasn't going to trust it to a CS4-4.
Tim
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11-29-2014, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,544
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I got to this spot today, and have a suggested method.
Set up and drill the uprights on the bench, 90 degrees as per plans
Rivet the outboard uprights in place but not the inner ones; that have the bad rivet location.
Now back-rivet the piece to the skin as per instructions.
Now it is quite easy to verify the 90 degrees for the inner uprights and rivet them in place. A back up check is to make sure the upright arms are parallel
and you can simply measure top and bottom to do that.
This method also makes it easier to back rivet the part to the skin without the inner uprights in the way.
Sorry about the sideways picture!

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RV14 Tail dragger
Fairlea Field
St.Thomas, Ontario Canada, CYQS
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11-29-2014, 11:23 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Benaraby Queensland. Australia
Posts: 209
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Forget that rivet, place one each side of it mid way between those already there. Will only work if there is enough edge distance.
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12-01-2014, 06:49 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Granbury, Tx
Posts: 78
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Rivet in bab spot
That rivet is the least of your problems. When you try to put the 1483 on, you will find the same hole that you used on the stiffer are used. You will be drilling out those 40 rivets .
Sam Butler
RV-6a
RV-7
RV-7a
RV-10
RV-12
RV-14a building
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12-02-2014, 06:19 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabswbc
That rivet is the least of your problems. When you try to put the 1483 on, you will find the same hole that you used on the stiffer are used. You will be drilling out those 40 rivets .
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Are you talking about the rivets in the doubler?
I mated my bottom skins together over the weekend and they were all correct per the plans. The rivets on the doubler slide under the lip on the bulkhead. Everything fit fine without having to drill out or re-use rivets. I am building the taildragger, so not sure if it is different on the nose dragger.
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Stoney
First RV-14 Flight 04/17/2016
Serial #140087, N214SW - Sold
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12-02-2014, 08:15 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Granbury, Tx
Posts: 78
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Rivet in a bad spot
The nut plate would not be a problem for the taildrager, but the stiffner is the same.
The holes in the 1483 r-l use the same #30 holes as the stiffner used on the 1484. The plans don't call for these skins to be mated until after the firewall section. Also, the rivets at the top of the 1483 and 1484 be be under the bulkhead at that point.
Sounds like you went ahead and skipped ahead and mated the skins now. That may be the fix vans come up with.
Sam
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