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11-13-2014, 09:57 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 710
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tight space rivet techniques
Well I'm at that point where I'm trying to figure out how to rivet those final few rivets on the bottom rudder skin-to-rib. The plans say it is acceptable to use pull rivets here, but most of the RVs I see seem to have used flush rivets. How are you guys doing this? I tried to make a thin bucking bar, but when I ground the metal thin enough to fit in that tight space, it bent when I bucked it.
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11-13-2014, 11:09 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 133
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I used the indirect riveting method. Put a rivet in the hole, tape it down, place the piece face down on a back-rivet plate, take a 3-4 inch piece of thick flat stock or a discarded wood chisel blade, put one end on the tail of the rivet and the other end on the back-rivet plate and then hammer away at it with your flush-set. It works like a lever and will set a 3/32 rivet nicely as long as you turn up the pressure a bit.
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Ivan Luke
Hope Valley, RI
RV-7 SB
Just hung the engine!
2020 dues paid
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11-13-2014, 11:11 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 634
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Pneumatic squeezer with the solid, thin-wedge-ended yoke. That's how I did mine. Dimpling them, that was another puzzler. I had to tape one side of the nail-pull dimple set to my ground-off yoke and a 3/32 dimple die in the piston.
Like so:
http://stjohn.openbar.com/airplane/?p=156
I would guess that it's highly unlikely that any bucking bar that thin will have the mass needed behind the rivet to buck effectively, unless it's made of neutronium.
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RV-7 N313TD
SOLD 7/2/2020
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11-13-2014, 11:24 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iluke
I used the indirect riveting method. Put a rivet in the hole, tape it down, place the piece face down on a back-rivet plate, take a 3-4 inch piece of thick flat stock or a discarded wood chisel blade, put one end on the tail of the rivet and the other end on the back-rivet plate and then hammer away at it with your flush-set. It works like a lever and will set a 3/32 rivet nicely as long as you turn up the pressure a bit.
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Here's a photo of the indirect method... 
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Ivan Luke
Hope Valley, RI
RV-7 SB
Just hung the engine!
2020 dues paid
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11-13-2014, 11:39 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Harrisburg, Pa
Posts: 759
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I used the same technique as Ivan. You have to turn the pressure up quite a bit, but it works well enough.
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11-13-2014, 11:57 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: KANE, Hugo, Minnesota
Posts: 765
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Mark,
Those are frustrating. I did manage to get all of them although the very inner corner is not what I would call perfect?its close but not perfect. I went to some A and P surplus store online and bought this bugger for $10
If you want to borrow it I could bring it down the next time I'm at my sisters house otherwise if you're up this way, you're welcome to it.
__________________
Aaron Arvig
RV-9A
Empennage Done
Wings-In Progress
N568AK Reserved
SOLD?but I'll be back
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11-13-2014, 12:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 818
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Similar technique
Take a look at the builders tips. Image at the bottom of the screen shows my technique. Works great.
http://www.experimentalaero.com/Builders%20Tips.htm
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Dream it, Build it, Fly it
Paul Merems (EAA Tech Counselor, EAA Sheetmetal Workshop Instructor/Volunteer 12 yrs)
ExperimentalAero- HANGAR BANNERS
www.experimentalaero.com
RV-7A (Flying since 2010)/RV-4 (sold 1990)
Tucson, Arizona 85749
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11-13-2014, 03:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 427
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I used an axe blade as the bucking bar.
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Doug Gray
RV-6 completed, flying since July 2010
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11-13-2014, 03:34 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,156
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I do like Ivan. I use a heavy masonry chisel and an already beat up mushroom set that I do not use for setting rivets (polished face is long gone).
Sorry, I just couldn't ever get used to that swivel set thingy. A mushroom set is for me.
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Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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11-13-2014, 07:58 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 710
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Thanks folks for the great advice. I stopped by a scrap yard on the way home from work today and picked up some metal to fabricate a bar as shown on the experimental aero site. I shaped the end into a wedge and it worked great with a few sharp blows from a hammer. Got to be careful that the hammer doesn't come down on the edge of the skin, so I just put a 2X4 block over the skin to protect it in case my aim was off. I think I'll have to pop rivet the aftmost rivets on the top rib though. Just too tight to get any metal in there that is thick enough to shape the rivet. Thanks for the great tips.
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