Control stick pushrod?doesn't fit

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by Bill_H

Don't be changing lengths of ANYTHING on the RV-12. Recheck the plans. Follow the plans. Make the control rods the exact lengths that the plans say. Use the exact parts and hardware the plans say. Mantra: If something does not fit, STOP! The likelihood is that the problem does NOT lie with the kit!

And check the RV12 forum thoroughly using search. Check the blogs for that kit section like Schmetterling Aviation and Marty Santic's and Tony Tessitore's picture set.

Please listen to what Bill is saying, and go back and read my post # 18.
If the flap handle to mixer pushrod seems too long, though it is made to proper dimension, the cause is the position of the flap handle. The UHMW flap handle blocks are not symmetrical (look carefully at the drawings). if they are installed incorrectly, the flap handle will be mounted in the wrong location, and cause a number of other problems.

[AF_Alan]

I must be blind. Where is the drawing which indicates the UHMW flap mounting blocks are not symetrical as rvbuilder2002 states? If they are not symetrical, then why do they have the same part number....

[Mich48041]

Maybe Scott means that some builders have mounted the blocks upside down.
Joe Gores

[rvbuilder2002]

Correct Joe.
For it to be a symmetrical part it means the part has a shape that it wouldn't matter how the part was oriented.
This particular part has the two mounting bolt holes offset from center axis of the pivot tube on the flap weldment so if they are installed incorrectly, the flap handle weldment will be in the wrong position.

[Paul LeDoux]

on page 32-04 you can see that the only way they could be mounted wrong is if they were up side down. The way they are mounted, they are reversed, the mounting recess faces each other so they have to be symmetrical fore and aft. However vertically they are not symmetrical. So if installed wrong side up, the flap handle base height will be incorrect.

Paul LeDoux
120495

[dbhill916]

I figured out why the control rods are touching the lock nuts. I didn't have the flap control handle in the proper position. I had put it all the way down, not into the lowest detent. In other words, the flaps would have been reflexed up, not in trail (as discussed on other threads.) With the flap handle in the proper detent, there is no interference. Viola! problem solved

[ben barron]

Don't forget to prime the inside and outside of all pushrods (per Section 5 update 10-2-14)

REVISION DESCRIPTION:
05-01: Added text: "To prime the inside of pushrods with liquid
primer, pour primer into one end and swirl it towards the other end,
coating the entire inside surface. Alternatively, spray primer into one
end of the pushrod, turn the pushrod around and spray again from
the other end."

[Tacco]

I have the exact same problem as David but I’m not so lucky as not having the the flap handle in the detent. After much investigation, turns out my flaperon handle pushrod is 5/32 too long. Don’t know how that happened but it did. I discovered all this during PAPs when I had definite grinding at full aft stick, full left or right aileron. Guess that’s why its important to exercise the PAPs.

So....what now! If I shortened the pushrod, flaperon droop increases accordingly. Right now I’m at the prescribed 1/4 inch on both wings.

What do you think of just using the smaller metal lock nuts (versus 365s mentioned above) and recessing them slightly in plastic system block. Have already tried using the metal nut alone; doesn’t quite clear.

Otherwise I would be forced into correcting the flaperon handle pushrod, then adjusting the main flaperon pushrods to maintain correct wing droop. What a nightmare.

[Mich48041]

My philosophy is, do what it best in the long run, not what is easiest. Sometimes it is easier to go ahead and do it the hard way to start with.