label before prime

[1bigdog]

Pardon the dumb question. I'm probably going to professionally alodine the interior parts. I would have sharpied the parts numbers onto each part as I remove the blue plastic but I realized the prep will probably dissolve all that marking.

I was considering stamping the parts which is more than a bit cumbersome. Tagging would be equally cumbersome of course and may not survive either. Is there suggested means to maintain identification of internal parts through the prep and alodine process??

Thanks for your suggestions.


Michael B.

[David Paule]

Don't stamp the parts - the stamping introduces stress concentrations.

Those tie-on tags work pretty well. Do a search for string tags. They come in different styles.



I rattle-can sprayed my parts and Sharpie markings show through. Easy!

Dave

[krw5927]

You could strategically leave certain holes or combinations of holes either un-drilled or drilled to a smaller size such that parts can only line up or mate one way.

Then after alodine and prior to final assembly, cleco the parts together so the hole patterns match, drill the remaining hole(s) to final size, quick disassemble and deburr, then reassemble and rivet.

Adds a little time but probably not too burdensome.

[kjlpdx]

what does "professionally alodined" mean? you spray or dip the part and let it dry. complexity hardly on the order of painting an airplane. much easier/cheaper/faster than trusting someone else to return all your parts undamaged. spend time on the stuff that matters.

[wirejock]

I agree the labels will show through. When you label is the question.
I peal vinyl, clean with laquer thinner to remove any glue residue, scuff a small area where the label will go then use sharpie to mark the part. The labels are very small with a fine tip sharpie. When it's time to prep for primer I don't scuff the label area. Primer prep cleaner doesn't remove it and it shows through the primer. I use SW P60G2 so you may not need to scuff. I also use arrows on labels. Two lines at a right angle with arrow points. One points forward or up depending on the part and location. One points inboard. I also label where two parts will mate so the labels never show. When parts are assembled, no labels are risible. YMMV

[1bigdog]

"professionally alodined" meaning I take it to a plating company with a known reputation for correct disposal methods. The prep is not such a huge problem to neutralize, but the alodine itself is a different storey.

I do agree however the thought of leaving parts or even having to transport them leaves me a bit sick inside. The only good news is the plating company is owned by a family friend.

So basically what I hear so far is that sharpie will show through some primers but I'm not sure I'm hearing it will survive the alumiprep of the alodine process.
The uniquely drilled out holes sounds good.

Cheers.

[Driving '67]

I just ordered a set of numbered metal tags and used safety wire to attach them to the various parts being treated.

[MarkW]

Michael,
The sharpie will not survive the acid prep.
I know of no better labeling than metal tags.

[1bigdog]

Gents, that's perfect. It's what I suspected.

I have a stamping kit from Lee Valley so I'll get some metal tags and wire and get stamping.

Thanks a lot for everyones suggestions.


Michael B.

[longranger]

You can mark parts with an electric pencil. Van's does it at the factory.