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10-12-2014, 06:31 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 654
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Tipup canopy gap question...
I've been searching around the forum and found a bunch of info on tip-up canopy gap. On the pilot's side where the canopy skin meets the forward skin, the canopy skin is at its maximum 1/8" proud of the forward skin.
I've been flying like crazy since receiving my airworthiness certificate, planning to address this later.
But I got wondering yesterday if this is dangerous or potentially damaging to the canopy. Could the canopy be ripped off because of this?
Here's a picture.
Thanks,
Mike-
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Michael Burbidge
Sammamish, WA
RV-14A Empennage
RV-9A Flying?340 hours!
Last Donation: December 2019
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10-12-2014, 06:37 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Waukesha, Wisconsin
Posts: 554
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Mines bigger than that
I don't like the cold air that blows in. My plan was to create a faired flox and resin bump in front of the gap, but it's getting too cold up here now.
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Paul 'Bugsy' Gardetto, Col, USAF (ret)
Milwaukee, Wisconsin (Timmerman Field)
N377KG - Flying (250 hrs)
RV-7A, Aerosport O-360, WW200RV
Advanced Flight 5400
Avidyne IFD440
Paint by planeschemer.com
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10-12-2014, 07:10 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 543
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I had the same problem and used fiberglass to build up the area ahead of the tip-up.... its now painted and looks great.

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Jason Tremble
RV-7A (Flying and Sold)
RV-10 in process (@#$$%# Cabin Top & Doors)
Paid for 2020
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10-12-2014, 07:15 PM
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Moderator, Asst. Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flower Mound, TX
Posts: 1,473
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Jason,
Please tell me more about your approach, because I have the same gap problem Mike has...and I blame Bugsy 'cause he helped me Sika the canopy.
What did you mix with the epoxy...some sort of filler? Or is it straight epoxy with cabosil? How did you level it to the same level as the canopy skin?
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Scroll
Sid "Scroll" Mayeux, Col, USAF (ret)
52F NW Regional/Aero Valley Airport, Roanoke TX (home of DR's Van Cave)
"KELLI GIRL" N260KM RV-7A tipper
Catch her on YouTube's "Because I Fly!" channel
Exemption waived.
Proud and grateful 2020 -=VAF=- Contributor
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10-12-2014, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,151
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Keep flying Michael. Address it later when you are ready for painting. Other then wet feet flying through the rain nothing to worry about
Take a look at the back there is another potential leak.

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10-12-2014, 08:22 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 654
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Nice Jason..
Wow, that looks nice Jason!
This kind of stuff is so hard to do now that I'm flying. I just don't want to take the plane down for long and not be able to fly it. Perhaps the middle of the winter.
I can't even get myself to put the pants on because the airplane might be down for a couple of days. What if there's a beautiful day to fly during that time?
I suppose I might be convinced when the air coming in through the "scoop" is cold enough to overwhelm the heat.
Michael-
__________________
Michael Burbidge
Sammamish, WA
RV-14A Empennage
RV-9A Flying?340 hours!
Last Donation: December 2019
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10-12-2014, 09:31 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Aust.
Posts: 820
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I have that same problem and built a small ramp in front using micro then sanding it smooth. Turned out nicely, but now I have to re-do it a little higher after installing seals under the canopy rails.
If you plan on installing something like bruceh and I did, do it before you build up in front of canopy. The locking lugs at rear will cause the canopy assembly to pivot slightly on this rubber seal, in turn raising the front of the canopy assembly around 2mm, ruining the perfect alignment you just achieved. Don't ask me how I know...
"Micro" is short for microballoons, tiny, tiny glass spheres finer than talcum powder that you mix into an epoxy mixture to create a kind of slurry. The more microballoons, the thicker ("stiffer") the slurry. For this application, you want it stiff enough that when you scoop your paddlepop stick in the mixture, it doesn't run off, instead forming little micro-mountains like this on the stick.
All up, not including painting, this should take no more than 2 hours to do. 30 minutes to mix and apply the micro, and 90 mins at most a couple of days later sanding it smooth.
Step 1: Determine if you actually have a problem.
Yep. We do.
Step 2: Mix up a stiff micro mixture, apply it to the gap and rough it to shape.
Step 3: Sand smooth.
Step 4: Crackatinny.

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Once you have tasted flight you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return - Leonardo DaVinci
My Flickr gallery: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35521362@N06/
RV-9A - Finished on 10th February 2016 after 4 years, 9 months and 19 days! The 1020th RV-9 flying.
First flight 26th March 2016. Essential specs 145KTAS @ 2400RPM, 8000', 24.2LPH, Initial RoC 1800FPM.
Last edited by KRviator : 10-12-2014 at 10:20 PM.
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10-12-2014, 10:30 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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I have the same issue and will just use filler to fair it. I have been using Rage (Poly Filler, i.e. Bondo) because I have it and am comfortable with it (painted several cars). I have avoided epoxy due to my unfamiliarity with sanding it and the longer cure time. Poly filler is ready to sand in 15 minutes and it sands pretty easy.
On the issue Vlad raised about the rear canopy. I assumed that would leak without some sealer. While my rear canopy is fitted and drilled, I haven't installed it yet. I plan to use some sealant between the plexi and skin. I will probably forgo silicone to avoid paint issues. May use some permatex #2, but wondering what others may have used here.
Larry
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10-12-2014, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.
I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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10-13-2014, 06:24 AM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172
I plan to use some sealant between the plexi and skin. I will probably forgo silicone to avoid paint issues. May use some permatex #2, but wondering what others may have used here.
Larry
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A small fillet of proseal (tank sealant) can be applied after the fact to seal the exterior gap between plexi and skin. It can also be painted if you wish.
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