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  #1  
Old 09-26-2014, 05:47 PM
Vbug Vbug is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Hoschton, GA
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Default Vans say replace main spar

Finally got the news recommending RV8 main spar replacement due to countersinking main spar flange too deep for skin dimples.
My countersink depth measured with an inserted rivet is .015", diameter is .234" with no hole elongation or knife edge.
I now know the ideal depth is .006" past flush but having a hard time believing .009" over is a deal breaker.
I am assuming a new spar would require new Z brackets, tank baffle, and possibly joint plate to get things in proper alignment.
Any advise on how to proceed maybe have a tech inspector put some eyes on it?


  #2  
Old 09-26-2014, 05:51 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is online now
 
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Default

I find Van's to except some pretty big flaws ( as per on this site) , so if they said to replace, that's what I'd be doing. I don't think Van's is looking for sales in this case.
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  #3  
Old 09-26-2014, 06:08 PM
Sig600 Sig600 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B. View Post
I find Van's to except some pretty big flaws ( as per on this site) , so if they said to replace, that's what I'd be doing. I don't think Van's is looking for sales in this case.
Agree. I've seen some pretty egregious errors that Vans said are no big deal. Spar structural loading is not something you want to play around with.
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  #4  
Old 09-26-2014, 07:27 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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I think the OP is asking how to proceed with a spar replacement. That is, what does he need to do in order to implement Van's recommendation?

Dave
  #5  
Old 09-26-2014, 09:16 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
I think the OP is asking how to proceed with a spar replacement. That is, what does he need to do in order to implement Van's recommendation?

Dave
Yeah, I think so too, but I am still shocked that Vans engineers rejected this mistake. It must have been that it was more than one.

The OP might get some satisfaction by discussing the situation with these guys : http://www.phlogistonproducts.com/index.html

They make spars for some RV products and maybe made this one.
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  #6  
Old 09-26-2014, 09:46 PM
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donaziza donaziza is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta
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Default

What'sa new spar cost?
  #7  
Old 09-26-2014, 11:17 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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I'm surprised a switch to 1/8 rivets wouldn't work here but since it's a spar, Vans engineers should have the final say.
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  #8  
Old 09-27-2014, 12:56 AM
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skylor skylor is offline
 
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Location: Southern California
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Default Original Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
I'm surprised a switch to 1/8 rivets wouldn't work here but since it's a spar, Vans engineers should have the final say.
OK, I have no idea why many of the original posts related to this thread disappeared, but Scott McDaniels made it pretty clear why larger rivets weren't acceptable (skin edge distance). And the issue was apparently discussed amongst Van's staff before making the final recommendation to replace the spar.

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  #9  
Old 09-27-2014, 01:29 AM
Yen Yen is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Benaraby Queensland. Australia
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Default

With the top of the rivet being so far below the surface of the spar, I doubt you would be able to fully drive a rivet, there would be no firm contact between rivet head and rivetting tool.
  #10  
Old 09-27-2014, 05:43 AM
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aarvig aarvig is offline
 
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Location: KANE, Hugo, Minnesota
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Default I'm with Vans on this one...

Rod,
As much as I know this hurts, my recommendation is to replace the spar per Vans. There is no way you will effectively set those rivets with them sitting so far below the surface and going to a larger rivet will not satisfy the edge distance requirements necessary for those components.
Yes, its a very expensive mistake BUT when you are cruising through the sky at 160 knots you can feel confident it won't come apart on you...and that is PRICELESS.
Bite the bullet and purchase a new spar. Check with Vans and see if they want you to ship the bulkhead back to them so they can match drill it to the new spar...that would be my only concern. Because the spars are matched to the lower bulkhead.
Good luck to you...
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