Anybody using clickbond nut plates?

[krw5927]

I used these several places on my plane. Especially the panel, where I didn't want rivets showing around the instruments. Also a handy way to avoid having to tap threads in the longeron for the empennage intersection fairings.

[Mark Dickens]

I used them on the instrument panel to avoid extra holes and I used them on my wing tips. If I had them earlier in the build, I would have used them to hold the floor panels instead of pop riveting them. They are not cheap, so it's all a matter of balancing cost vs. time/convenience.

[rv6rick]

Why would you want to use them ?

Originally Posted by Vansconvert

http://www.clickbond.com/modules.php...&categoryid=88

Just learned of these. Are these acceptable for aircraft?

[rivetshaver]

Don't use them, they will eventually disbond. Working transport aircraft I have seen this many times. Very difficult to remove a screw from a spinning nutplate.

[flion]

I don't use the nutplates but I use the studs. They will be used mostly in my overhead console for the oxygen delivery units and some electrical components. But I also used them in the rudder to secure the trim servo. The ones I put in the first attempt at the rudder a couple of years ago are like limpets; I'd crinkle the aluminum skin trying to remove them. For carrying a light load like a Ray Allen servo, I don't think I'll have to worry about them coming off.

So I could see these working for nutplates, but for the expense I'd rather use a regular nutplate. I haven't run into places where I need a nutplate that I can't rivet it in.

[sjhurlbut]

They will not disbond if installed correctly. My RV has no holes in the floor. Zip tie holders for wiring as great. Trick is lightly sanded surface and clean. Then only mix up enough bond for about 5 fasteners. After applying the bond put the fastener in place while bond is wet. It should ooze out around the base and be beige in colour. As soon as its light green it's too late. Mix up more bond. I use them for wiring bundles, Adel clamps, multiple nutplates. I have glued a test nutplate and tie down fixture and pulled as hard as I could. I broke the scrap going through the wire bundle and snapped the head off of the screw by torquing it. Highly recommend. Only downside I've experienced is supply - companies seem to not stock enough and don't carry all the product. Also careful on the threaded ones. Some are course thread and will not work with an3 an4 or standard 6 & 8 screws

[BigD]

I've used a few of these, found in this previous thread, starting with post #10:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ight=clickbond

==dave==

[BillL]

It looks like the added value is the replacement by removing the clips and replace the threaded element. That would be a big advantage for military or commercial for keeping maintenance costs and down time in line.

It looks like a cost/value relationship out of range for homebuilt environment.

Cool design, though . .

[krwalsh]

In composite planes (our Cozy IV, for example) I have used probably 100 of the ClickBond studs. Everywhere I want an Adel clamp in the structure is a ClickBond. The aileron and rudder hinges are held on with ClickBonds (that is something like 40 right there). The autopilot servos are held in with ClickBonds. The landing brake is held on with ClickBonds. On and on, you get the idea. I've used lots of them.

Here are some keys:

I don't use their adhesive. I find it finicky, tough to tell if you've done it right, and they sometimes fail. I use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut 6 slots around the edges of the bonding disc. This helps keep it from rotating. Then the surface I am bonding to is roughed up in a ~2" circle. I flox the ClickBond in place, then do a 2 BID layup over the clickbond. Popping a hole in the BID works fine, and use a straw or heat shrink tube to keep the epoxy off the threads. Peel ply over the BID and let it cure.

For critical applications (rudders, ailerons, landing brake, etc) it is exactly the same, but the ClickBond is inserted from the opposite side of the layup, through a hole. Then same flox, BID, peel ply.

Installed as I have outlined I have not had one disbond. If you want to test it put one in as described then pull it out with a pair of pliers. You'll find that the layup is destroyed long before the ClickBond comes out.

[jdeas]

I used these in a few non-structural areas when it would have been difficult to rivet or dimple. The only failures I had were due to the glue being out of date. Once I kept the glue packs cool and used by the expiration, everything worked great!