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  #21  
Old 08-26-2014, 01:59 PM
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Closterman Closterman is offline
 
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Location: La Sarre, Qu?bec, Canada
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About that (carbon monoxyde), I have installed today my heater bypass box. I have the Van's model. I can't understand why we have to seal the firewall, wire hole and everything, and this box are full of gap everywhere !! Did I miss something, or it's normal ......??
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2014, 02:33 PM
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Bubblehead Bubblehead is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Keller, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
I have the AWI exhaust and they have welded studs on on the exhaust pipe under the heat muff. I am counting on them to provide enough heat from one muff down to at least zero F. I also have heated seats.

Maybe AWI would add them to your pipe for a nominal charge. They are resistance welded on with huge threads too.
I have had the AWI 4-into-1 exhaust for 6 years and it will throw out a lot of heat. I wish Larry V. put studs on his pipes, but the original 4 into 2 from Larry that was on my -8 had a heat muff that was off-center so I don't know where you'd know to put the studs. I bought the AWI product because I was living in Northern Illinois and flying a lot in the winter and wanted the extra cabin heat.

Here's a link to a thread about using stainless steel wool or stainless steel scrubbing pads to pack into the heat muff. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ght=steel+wool
Here is a source for the pads http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new
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  #23  
Old 08-26-2014, 03:02 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Closterman View Post
About that (carbon monoxyde), I have installed today my heater bypass box. I have the Van's model. I can't understand why we have to seal the firewall, wire hole and everything, and this box are full of gap everywhere !! Did I miss something, or it's normal ......??
The standard air supply for the heater is either the back of R/S baffle or up front in clean(er) air. The bypass simply keeps air flowing through the heat muff to keep that section of exhaust pipe from over heating. If you have gaps in the heater valve then you should seal them up, along with all the firewall cracks. You seal the firewall so it will retain fire incase of engine fire. See DanH posts on his FWF materials work. He has exposed many materials and practices that could have negative effects on the occupants in case of engine fire. You should be familiar with that. The standard Vans heater valve uses an aluminum flapper, many have replaced that with a stainless flapper version (like the 10 uses) . Don't use pro seal for a firestop material.
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2014, 10:57 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
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Anyone ever thought of wrapping and exhaust header with a copper tube filled with coolant a small circulation pump and a heater core inside the cabin? With a small 12v fan these can pump out btu's a ball valve can isolate the core for summer operation.
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  #25  
Old 09-09-2014, 07:37 AM
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DanH DanH is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
I suppose if things get worse, I can get heated underwear like Dan H
It's hard to beat an electric motorcycle vest. Wore it for years flying open cockpit stuff. In the RV I put it on Patti, and she seems happy. Been meaning to buy another one, but so far I've not felt a need. I just wear a cold weather pullover riding suit. I guess my Yankee cousins would pick a snowmobile suit.

Anyway, it's fine down to zero OAT over jeans and a sweater, with ordinary nomex gloves. Very comfortable walking on a cold ramp, and meets the winter survival requirement if forced down.

No firewall penetrations for heater boxes, no scat hoses or heat muffs in the engine bay, no CO risk. We're in the era of the all-electric airplane, yes?
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  #26  
Old 09-09-2014, 04:52 PM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
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Default Motorcycle vest

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
It's hard to beat an electric motorcycle vest. Wore it for years flying open cockpit stuff. In the RV I put it on Patti, and she seems happy. Been meaning to buy another one, but so far I've not felt a need. I just wear a cold weather pullover riding suit. I guess my Yankee cousins would pick a snowmobile suit.

Anyway, it's fine down to zero OAT over jeans and a sweater, with ordinary nomex gloves. Very comfortable walking on a cold ramp, and meets the winter survival requirement if forced down.

No firewall penetrations for heater boxes, no scat hoses or heat muffs in the engine bay, no CO risk. We're in the era of the all-electric airplane, yes?
Dan. Do you recommend plugging into the 12v system in the plane or the self contained battery vests?. I have no heat in my plane, live in the North East and would like to fly this winter.
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  #27  
Old 09-09-2014, 05:08 PM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is online now
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Default Heated vests like Dan says.

Heated motorcycle jacket liners are the way to go. Just plug them into a properly rated outlet. They really only draw about 3-5 amps when on full power, and I assure you they won't be on full power. I use them in the Stearman and have flown it down to 35F and was toasty warm and was on about 1/3 power. They are very light and go right over your shirt.

Vic
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  #28  
Old 02-26-2015, 05:28 PM
Slats Slats is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Milton Ontario
Posts: 57
Default Two bits

My 4 originally had cabin heat scavenged from the oil cooler exhaust, it didnt work.
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