Cooling Air Ramp Cracked

[Gash]

Dan, one more thing. What was your reason for encasing the urethane foam in a single ply of glass? Was it for flame resistance? It seems to me like I'll get much better vibration dampening by having just urethane sandwiched tightly between the cooling air ramp and the cockpit floor.

[DanH]

Originally Posted by Gash

Dan, one more thing. What was your reason for encasing the urethane foam in a single ply of glass? Was it for flame resistance? It seems to me like I'll get much better vibration dampening by having just urethane sandwiched tightly between the cooling air ramp and the cockpit floor.

The foam panel is much tougher with glass skin, and adhesives stick to the surface better.

[Bavafa]

Originally Posted by DanH

One piece stainless ramp. No transverse stiffeners, and note folded sides. Just flatten out the original aluminum panel as a pattern, add the sides, fold, mark them with a trial fit, and trim an 1/8 or so short of the belly skin:



The point of the silicone sealant is to bond the ramp, glassed block, and forward floor into one inflexible part...no flex, so the two panels can't vibrate like drum heads. You won't need the dynamat. While you're there, seal all the seams under the ramp, and then seal all the edges of the ramp itself before you rivet. You'll never have oil and exhaust inside the fuselage.

All I have to say;
Work of art

One day I will fly to your neck of the wood just to check out your plane and shop as I am envious

[glenn654]

Gash,

You may want to reconsider using Dynamat.

I know it would be great as a damper but may also be flammable at a fairly low temp. I know it would be outside the cockpit but could still be a problem.

I used a layer of Fiberfrax between my fuse and the cooling ramp when I did this to my -4 several years ago.

YMMV,

Glenn Wilkinson

[scard]

Originally Posted by Bavafa

All I have to say;
Work of art

One day I will fly to your neck of the wood just to check out your plane and shop as I am envious

Just be prepared when you belly up to his work bench. You'll probably feel like you just wondered into Oz, for this is where a giant must work .
As we already know, Dan is a true craftsman. He doesn't have a whole warehouse full of expensive exotic tools. He uses the one between his ears well. Don't fool yourself, he is still holding back some secrets that we can milk out of him over time.

Dan, thanks for sharing so much with those of us that aspire to be hot on your heels!

[Gash]

Glenn, I tried Googling for the Dynamat MSDS but couldn't find anything. Has anybody else seen a Dynamat MSDS and/or flammability ratings?

I already have some ordered, so I suppose I'll take my blow torch to a piece of it and see what happens (which of course will appeal to my inner child). My plan is to use both Dynamat (assuming favorable flame resistant quality) and urethane foam.

Fiberfrax is a good idea too.

[Doug94]

Gash,

I attached the dynamite to the cooling ramp. I got the idea for this product from other rv8 builders who have used this. I know three others - working great for all.

Doug

[Gash]

I attached the dynamite to the cooling ramp.

Great! Now all you need is a really long fuse!

[rhill]

Dan,
May I ask, What is the thickness of the Stainless used?
RHill

[DanH]

Originally Posted by rhill

Dan,
May I ask, What is the thickness of the Stainless used?
RHill

26 gauge (0.019"), typical firewall material.