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08-11-2014, 02:53 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 734
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If you want to use 2 switches and 1 LED (BiColor) you're going to need some CMOS logic or at least some DPDT relays. If the float switches were DPDT you'd have a chance but they aren't, SPST. If you want to switch an LED on/off with a SPST you'll need logic.
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08-11-2014, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toobuilder
Yes, by "floating", I meant that literally - probably a poor description. anyway, it is in regards to the fuel level. I didn't define open or closed because I'm not sure what the circut needs. With these switches I think I can configure them to open or close when high and dry or submerged.
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Right, by orienting the switch float one way or the other you can make it close when "fuller" or "emptier" than the mounting location. (as long as Mr. Gravity is pointing the right way!)
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Mike W
Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....finishing kit in progress. Titan IOX-370
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08-11-2014, 03:18 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,341
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This is what I was talking about. No CMOS or relays or other stuff should be needed. Common anode RGB LED, leave the blue disconnected.
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Mike W
Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....finishing kit in progress. Titan IOX-370
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08-11-2014, 03:46 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mojave
Posts: 4,642
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Great!
...Even I get it. Time to buy some LED's and switches and breadboard this thing.
Thanks much!
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.
Michael Robinson
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Harmon Rocket II -SDS EFI
RV-8 - SDS CPI
1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C
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08-12-2014, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: C09 - Morris
Posts: 579
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just an FYI ... use two independent LED's ... if you have someone on board that is color blind ... the multi-color LED will be meaningless.
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(This post by: Christopher Checca EAA Lifetime Member #799388)
Allen Checca (father)
Christopher Checca (son)
RV-6A - N468AC
ENGINE: Lycoming 180 HP O-360-A1A
PROPELLER: Senisentch 72FM859-1-85
WEIGHT: Empty Aircraft 1152 lbs
BASED: KC09 - Morris, IL.
Flying since June 6, 2005
N468AC Web Site
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08-23-2014, 03:47 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mojave
Posts: 4,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl-mike
This is what I was talking about...
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Hey Mike- I purchased the LEDs and float switches and have been playing with them on the bench. I have the common anode tied to a 1k ohm resistor (not the 850 ohm you specified, but that's all I had on hand), and a dead Odyssey battery (10.5 v). I can get the red segment to light, but not the green or blue. I understand that red is the lowest power of all the LED colors... Is the higher value resistor and dead battery dragging the voltage down so far that blue or green don't light off?
__________________
WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.
Michael Robinson
______________
Harmon Rocket II -SDS EFI
RV-8 - SDS CPI
1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C
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08-23-2014, 09:07 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,341
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I probably should have specified two different resistor values in the cathode legs to optimize the current in each LED to 20mA. Rev A!
I'm surprised you are not seeing anything on the green, but green and blue do have a higher forward voltage than the red. Parallel two 1k resistors and try again. That should be safe for a 10V supply. Let's try and get light, then you can finalize the values.
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Mike W
Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....finishing kit in progress. Titan IOX-370
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08-23-2014, 09:33 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: KSGJ / TJBQ
Posts: 2,034
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I would add a 5.1v Zener diode in parallel with the LED's to ground to help regulate the voltage seen by the LED's.
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08-23-2014, 10:39 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,259
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LEDs operate on current. Change the current and you will change the luminace. You need two resistors one for each led. The resistor is selected by first picking the desired current. 20mA is a good starting point. Different LEDs have different operating currents. The resistor is determined by (Vbatt - VLED)/20mA. VLED is based on the forward voltage of the LED. No Zener is required for this type of circuit. Look at the datasheet for your LEDs to get the actual values for VLED and the current
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Ray Tonks
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08-24-2014, 04:56 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: KSGJ / TJBQ
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl-mike
I probably should have specified two different resistor values in the cathode legs to optimize the current in each LED to 20mA. Rev A!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapid_ascent
No Zener is required for this type of circuit.
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A Zener is not required but will keep the brightness at a more constant level.
Last edited by GalinHdz : 08-30-2014 at 07:43 AM.
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