To louver or not to louver

[ajay]

I would look into the electric cooling flaps offered at antisplataero.com, getting good reviews. Maybe a better solution than louvers.

ajay

[Jesse]

The stock engine in the stock -10 cowl installed in the stock way with good stock baffles should not be running that hot. I would first go through the other suggestions for mag timing, leaning and baffle sealing. Louvers definitely help, and I especially think one on the side by the oil cooler is a good idea, but you should be able to get acceptable temps without extra louvers. I would start with good baffles and the other things mentioned and then add louvers. Extra exit area means extra drag. Inefficient cooling because of baffle leaks is what you want to avoid. Efficient cooling with good tight baffles is one of the things that make these planes faster than the Cherokees and Cessnas out there with massive inlets and terrible baffles.

[Wayne Gillispie]

Originally Posted by Jesse

The stock engine in the stock -10 cowl installed in the stock way with good stock baffles should not be running that hot. I would first go through the other suggestions for mag timing, leaning and baffle sealing. Louvers definitely help, and I especially think one on the side by the oil cooler is a good idea, but you should be able to get acceptable temps without extra louvers. I would start with good baffles and the other things mentioned and then add louvers. Extra exit area means extra drag. Inefficient cooling because of baffle leaks is what you want to avoid. Efficient cooling with good tight baffles is one of the things that make these planes faster than the Cherokees and Cessnas out there with massive inlets and terrible baffles.

Everything stock on mine and no extra louvers. I climb at 120 kias once above 1000' agl. CHT's run 380-385F on a 90F takeoff during climb. Always near gross. Once in low altitude cruise and LOP, Oil= 170-185F, CHT's= 320-340F. 100LL and Mags.

[AaronG]

I also have a completely stock setup and see numbers similar to Wayne. I started at 425, and got down to 380 in the climb at 112 kts on a hot day. Followed the advice of posts from the website, other than increasing exit area. I suspect that solution could be effective, but you add drag, so there are better ways of reducing the temps.

Aaron

[bpattonsoa]

I had high temps at the start that required climb speeds af 130 or more knots to keep it below 415. I have a plenum, so it is tight. The temps did not drop much for the first 10 hours, but then slowly improved. I think it was at least 40 hours before it really broke in. Now I climb at 130 knots, 2500 rpm and full rich until above 5 K with temps around 360 -375. On hot days I still can see 400. Used mineral oil til 35 hours.

Check timing and leaks, then just keep putting on hours, it may just be slow to break in.

[RONSIM]

When we were breaking in our -10, the front two cylinders ran hot --- on advice in the forum, started cutting down the air dams in front of the cylinders --- finally ended up eliminating them ---- life was good after that.