Reaming Nose Gear Bolt Hole

lr172 · #1 08-09-2014, 09:03 AM

My kit was started by someone else and the clean up seems unending. I was installing the Engine Mount today and looked closely at the Bolt hole for the Nose Gear attach point. One of the holes looks good, not interference fit, but no movement. The other hole is hogged out a bit on the outer edge. This allows the bolt to move in an angular fashion before bottoming out. If I measure the complete hole with a caliper, I get .315. If I measure closer to the outer edge, I get as much as .324. I feel that this should be addressed to avoid potential problems.

My plan was to use a first oversize (+1/64) bolt and ream it to that size. I have only used a reamer a couple of times. My first question is will I have a difficult time reaming the gear leg. I know it is spring steel, so I assume some type of hardening. I remember when I got the SB done they said the threads were machine cut (not with a Die) because of the hardness.

The second question, is will I need to make a drill jig? I am assuming that the reamer won't necessarily follow the wall on the mount. Will I also need a jig for the gear leg or will the reamer follow the hole due to it's depth.

I appreciate any guidance or suggestions that you can provide here.

Thanks,

Larry

Mike H · #2 08-09-2014, 09:15 AM

I would ream for and install a taper pin, much easier to get a better installation hole when reamed by hand, and also has less tendency to wear and become loose in the future. I have never done this to an RV nose gear but someone who has may come along and tell us the real story.

az_gila · #3 08-09-2014, 09:19 AM

Perhaps the taper pin option might be a better fix?

Search VAF for "nose taper pin" for lots of info...

grayforge · #4 08-09-2014, 09:23 AM

If going with a normal bolt and reamer...

What I did was slip the reamer into the hole from the back, IE chuck end first, then secured it in the drill chuck. Using lots of cutting oil, I then reamed by pulling the reamer through vs pushing. I felt this gave me a straight ream.

Good luck!
Russ

lr172 · #5 08-09-2014, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grayforge

If going with a normal bolt and reamer...

What I did was slip the reamer into the hole from the back, IE chuck end first, then secured it in the drill chuck. Using lots of cutting oil, I then reamed by pulling the reamer through vs pushing. I felt this gave me a straight ream.

Good luck!
Russ

Good idea. Did you do this separately for mount and leg or did you do it while mated? Did you use a standard HSS reamer?

Thanks,

Larry

grayforge · #6 08-09-2014, 10:09 AM

Yep, I used a standard reamer (.311 in my case) and both mount and gear leg at the same time to ensure a perfect fit. Handily, the reamer's non cutting shaft diameter is smaller than the cutting section's.