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  #21  
Old 07-27-2014, 08:41 AM
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flyingriki flyingriki is offline
 
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Now that's the ticket!
Thanks Sam.
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  #22  
Old 07-27-2014, 08:42 AM
tim2542 tim2542 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redding,Ca
Posts: 633
Default PPG Delta

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlisler View Post
My RV4 has been painted for seven years with DuPont urethane single stage paint. The finish is extremely slick and shines as good as any paint out there. With that said, my biggest complaint is that the paint will stain, especially the white. Bugs can leave a stain, the grime on the belly will stain the paint, and fuel will leave a stain. I think the biggest advantage of a poly-urethane paint may be its stain resistance. I wish I had spent the extra $$$ on a higher quality paint. I do not relish the thought of repainting my airplane one day.
Dan Mauer (has painted 800+ planes and many RV's) painted my Cozy, he uses PPG Delta single stage specifically because it won't stain, Avgas, bugs, you name it. It's nice not to have to worry about that.
Tim
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  #23  
Old 07-27-2014, 09:04 AM
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M McGraw M McGraw is offline
 
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Location: Greenback, TN
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[thread moved to RV General Discussion because this thread doesn't need to disappear in two weeks; S. Buchanan]

I got a good chuckle out of this comment. I started this thread in the temp section because I thought it would be of little interest to others. I do believe the many comments are swaying me towards single stage urethane automotive paint because I can get it locally and match it locally for eventual repairs over time.

My last aircraft was jetglo. It was a wonderful paint, but I had difficulty getting matching paint in small amounts.
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  #24  
Old 07-27-2014, 09:33 AM
deek deek is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Flathead Lake Montana - 8S1
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My first LongEZ was painted with SS Imron in 1982, and and in most areas it looks as good as it did when fresh. Most of it's life is in the hangar, but I'm guessing it's spent 1,000+ days and nights in the sun/rain/snow... Some of the wet look sheen has gone, but from 5' it looks like brand new. I've painted 5 homebuilts with SS Imron polyurethane, and intend to use urethane SS on the 14.

I think the Dupont Imron formula changed years ago, but I understand the original that doesn't spray well with HVLP equipment is available as truck paint (not auto paint)
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'89 LimoEZ - N26EZ 686 hours (sold)
A couple of Glasairs and a Lancair 320...
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  #25  
Old 07-27-2014, 11:18 AM
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azrv6 azrv6 is offline
 
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Ditto what Sam said. I painted my RV6 in 1995 (19 years ago) with single stage PPG Deltron. Still looks great.



It gets washed once a year and has never been waxed.
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  #26  
Old 07-27-2014, 02:06 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO, Okemos MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingriki View Post
If UV were the only issue you're correct, but it's not. A plane can go from 110? to 60 in a few minutes and back again a couple times a trip. Cars don't, usually, hit bugs and rain drops at 200 mph, nor flex their panels doing aerobatics, get blasted by other's prop wash, etc. etc. I know some love the auto products, I just don't see why not use the same brand's aviation products?
You are right on all of your points. My thought is almost all paint research done for cars since they are where the money is. My next door neighbor owns a high end body and customizing shop in Aspen. Some of the cars he paints probably get everything but the prop wash! Talking with him, he said there wasn't any or little difference other than the cost. He may not have wanted to get into detail with me because I am no expert and wouldn't understand anyway.

It is all comfort levels. My 9A will not be hitting the high speeds or dancing in the sky so I will be using auto paint. One of the big considerations for me is being able to go to auto zone and pick up touch up paint.
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  #27  
Old 07-28-2014, 01:11 AM
Vansrv7arob Vansrv7arob is offline
 
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Location: Coal Point, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M McGraw View Post
What I forgot to say is I have already done the etch with sandpaper, red scotchbrite pads, and a small amount of chemical. Then I primed with the 2 part AKZO Nobel epoxy primer, wonderful stuff! Now I just need to sand and scuff the primer for the color coat.
Marvin ive done exactly the same prep as you send me an email vansrv7arob@gmail.com and ill give you the low-down on advice i have received specific to painting over the akzo. I plan to colour coat with Alumigrip which is another AKZO product due to the excellent experience so far with the primer and also therory of sticking with one system and supplier for all paint?

There are many ways to skin the painting cat, the rep has given me exception service and advice (sometimes on weekends) so im going to stick with AKZO system personally.

Id also be intsrested in hearing other opinions youve receivex about coating over AKZO.
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  #28  
Old 07-28-2014, 05:42 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Another thought for builders to ponder......it is a good idea to hold off on treating/priming exterior surfaces until you have decided which finish system you will be using. Modern top finishes work best when combined with primer that belongs to the same system.

The builder who is going to paint his own plane can make this decision early in the build, but if the plane will be professionally painted it is good to leave the exterior untreated so the painter can apply primer appropriate for the finish he will be using.

But even it painting the plane yourself, you might consider holding off on exterior primer until ready to paint. Epoxy primers don't need to be sanded if the top coats are applied within a specified window, usually 48 hours or something similar. Polyurethane finishes develop maximum durability when each stage chemically cross links and this occurs within a specified time window.
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Last edited by Sam Buchanan : 07-28-2014 at 05:47 AM.
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  #29  
Old 08-07-2014, 10:21 AM
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M McGraw M McGraw is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Greenback, TN
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Default I decided to go with automotive paint

Thank you to everyone that provided input to this thread. I finally decided to go with an automotive single stage urethane. Mostly because it is readily available locally. That will make future repairs easy.
Vertical, horizontal, elevators, trim tab complete. Flaps, ailerons, and rudder have the base white complete. Flaps will have 6 inch black strips on the bottoms. Rudder will have 3 inch black checkerboard. Ailerons will have charcoal grey and black stripes. The red is Dodge Viper red. The white is Pepsi white, but I had the yellow removed so only black and white components. The Charcoal grey is a metal flake and the black is gloss black. Not as conservative as my last plane. . These pictures are before the cut and buff.

I purchased two cheap engine stands from Harbor Freight. I plan to cut and weld them into a rotisserie for the wing painting and fuselage build.

Why did I paint before completing the plane? Simple, I've run out of parts until my fuselage kit arrives. Yes, there are disadvantages. Again, I ran out of parts.
http://
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  #30  
Old 08-07-2014, 11:49 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Nice! If you get bored, feel free to wander out my way. Wings nd empennage are in a storage unit, I'll give you the key and my compressor.



What brand of paint did you use?
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Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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