VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-7/7A
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 07-22-2014, 09:42 AM
xblueh2o xblueh2o is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 852
Default

Agreed on the tap extractor.
Money spent on good tools is never wasted.
__________________
Sam
RV-8 with the Showplanes Fastback conversion
Emp completed except for glass work
Wings completed except for bottom skin and glass work
Fuselage underway
N18451 reserved
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-22-2014, 10:18 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,514
Default

Those carbide armor drills look nice.

This is crude, but if you can not get to the back to remove it or heat to loosen, then just back it up, hammer it through and either use a plate nut or #8 screw.

If you want to spend several days getting materials, then get some nitric acid, make a pool around it with clay and dissolve it. It should take about 30 min. That is after all the trouble to procure the acid. Only nitric.

Edit: Link for Tap-X http://www.westtool.com/default.aspx...cts_tap-x.html
__________________
Bill

RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”

Last edited by BillL : 07-22-2014 at 11:51 AM. Reason: added link
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-22-2014, 10:24 AM
mdoyle mdoyle is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Xenia, OH
Posts: 147
Default

Walton Tap Extractor, Google it. I have used these with great success. it will cost $20.00 to 25.00 dollars.
__________________
Mike Doyle
RV-12
RV-9A, Under Construction
Xenia, OH 45385
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-22-2014, 10:31 AM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is online now
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
Default

I have had success in the past with beeswax, and heat.

Apply a dab of beeswax, heat with a heat gun, let cool. Repeat a couple times, and then use a tap extractor or other device to twist the tap out while the heat gun is still in use.

Dont rush things, just get the broken tap moving a little, then remove the extractor, and clean out any chips------then reinsert the extractor and repeat as needed. Keep it well lubricated.

Kahuna's idea of using snap ring pliers is a good one, probably cheaper than an tap extractor, and easier to find.

Just in case you are not familiar with tap extractors, see here. http://aviationmiscmanuals.tpub.com/...4-23-9_100.htm

Good luck, just remember that sometimes it just simply will not come out--------dont waste too much time/effort/sanity on this, move the hole over a bit and redo.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."

Last edited by Mike S : 07-22-2014 at 10:34 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-22-2014, 11:23 AM
kjlpdx kjlpdx is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: lake oswego, OR
Posts: 161
Default

I know many will strongly disagree , but after 15 yrs of flying and maintenance, I'd use only #8 screws everywhere. #6's are pretty, but very easy to bugger, plus it's just something else to keep track of.
__________________
RV-6A 1500+hrs since 1997
O-320 D2J, FP, slo-bld
49 states, Bahamas, Canada
2014 - PAID
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 07-22-2014, 11:35 AM
rmartingt's Avatar
rmartingt rmartingt is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
Default

I haven't gotten to that part yet... why is a tapped hole called out? A nutplate would be much easier and less susceptible to complications...
__________________
RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 07-22-2014, 12:00 PM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is online now
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmartingt View Post
.. why is a tapped hole called out?
.
Typical Vans engineering ---------costs less, weighs less, quicker and easier than a nutplate, and (when done successfully) works just fine to do the job it is intended to do.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."

Last edited by Mike S : 07-22-2014 at 01:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 07-22-2014, 12:59 PM
petersb petersb is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 328
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Hitchen View Post
Well, surprises still happen this far into the build. I managed to snap a 6-32 tap this morning while tapping a hole in the longeron for the rear inspection plate.

A quick attempt to drill into the tap failed and wandered, so that was quickly abandoned.

Any thoughts on the best way to remove this would be greatly appreciated. Once out I can enlarge to 8-32 if needed.

Many thanks




Happened to me too, probably everyone that has built an RV.

My solution was to simply tap it through using a drift punch, then installing a nut plate. Very simple, quick and easy

Peter
__________________
RV7A New Dec 2013 - 360, C/S, slider
RV6 - 1600 Hours ---- Sold
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 07-22-2014, 02:50 PM
rocketbob's Avatar
rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,562
Default

Avoid store bought taps like the plague. USA-made titanium nitride coated two flute taps are the way to go. I routinely do hard tapping on the milling machine and lathe, rarely if ever stopping on aluminum. Stanless, inconel, etc. different story. Tapmagic for aluminum or in a pinch kerosene is good for tapping.
__________________

Please don't PM me! Email only!

Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 07-22-2014, 07:01 PM
Simon Hitchen Simon Hitchen is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 290
Default Thank you

Thanks for all the guidance guys.

I'll follow the advice and see how things work out.

Many thanks
__________________
Simon Hitchen
Port Perry, ON, Canada
7 Tip Up, Titan XIO-360, Dual P-Mags, Airflow Performance matched Injectors, Sensenich FP Prop, Dynon Skyview, GTR-200, GTX-327
FLYING!
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:24 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.