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07-22-2014, 09:42 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 852
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Agreed on the tap extractor.
Money spent on good tools is never wasted.
__________________
Sam
RV-8 with the Showplanes Fastback conversion
Emp completed except for glass work
Wings completed except for bottom skin and glass work
Fuselage underway
N18451 reserved
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07-22-2014, 10:18 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,514
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Those carbide armor drills look nice.
This is crude, but if you can not get to the back to remove it or heat to loosen, then just back it up, hammer it through and either use a plate nut or #8 screw.
If you want to spend several days getting materials, then get some nitric acid, make a pool around it with clay and dissolve it. It should take about 30 min. That is after all the trouble to procure the acid. Only nitric.
Edit: Link for Tap-X http://www.westtool.com/default.aspx...cts_tap-x.html
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
Last edited by BillL : 07-22-2014 at 11:51 AM.
Reason: added link
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07-22-2014, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Xenia, OH
Posts: 147
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Walton Tap Extractor, Google it. I have used these with great success. it will cost $20.00 to 25.00 dollars.
__________________
Mike Doyle
RV-12
RV-9A, Under Construction
Xenia, OH 45385
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07-22-2014, 10:31 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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I have had success in the past with beeswax, and heat.
Apply a dab of beeswax, heat with a heat gun, let cool. Repeat a couple times, and then use a tap extractor or other device to twist the tap out while the heat gun is still in use.
Dont rush things, just get the broken tap moving a little, then remove the extractor, and clean out any chips------then reinsert the extractor and repeat as needed. Keep it well lubricated.
Kahuna's idea of using snap ring pliers is a good one, probably cheaper than an tap extractor, and easier to find.
Just in case you are not familiar with tap extractors, see here. http://aviationmiscmanuals.tpub.com/...4-23-9_100.htm
Good luck, just remember that sometimes it just simply will not come out--------dont waste too much time/effort/sanity on this, move the hole over a bit and redo.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
Last edited by Mike S : 07-22-2014 at 10:34 AM.
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07-22-2014, 11:23 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: lake oswego, OR
Posts: 161
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I know many will strongly disagree , but after 15 yrs of flying and maintenance, I'd use only #8 screws everywhere. #6's are pretty, but very easy to bugger, plus it's just something else to keep track of.
__________________
RV-6A 1500+hrs since 1997
O-320 D2J, FP, slo-bld
49 states, Bahamas, Canada
2014 - PAID
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07-22-2014, 11:35 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
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I haven't gotten to that part yet... why is a tapped hole called out? A nutplate would be much easier and less susceptible to complications...
__________________
RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
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07-22-2014, 12:00 PM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmartingt
.. why is a tapped hole called out?
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Typical Vans engineering ---------costs less, weighs less, quicker and easier than a nutplate, and (when done successfully) works just fine to do the job it is intended to do.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
Last edited by Mike S : 07-22-2014 at 01:00 PM.
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07-22-2014, 12:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Hitchen
Well, surprises still happen this far into the build. I managed to snap a 6-32 tap this morning while tapping a hole in the longeron for the rear inspection plate.
A quick attempt to drill into the tap failed and wandered, so that was quickly abandoned.
Any thoughts on the best way to remove this would be greatly appreciated. Once out I can enlarge to 8-32 if needed.
Many thanks

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Happened to me too, probably everyone that has built an RV.
My solution was to simply tap it through using a drift punch, then installing a nut plate. Very simple, quick and easy
Peter
__________________
RV7A New Dec 2013 - 360, C/S, slider
RV6 - 1600 Hours ---- Sold
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07-22-2014, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,562
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Avoid store bought taps like the plague. USA-made titanium nitride coated two flute taps are the way to go. I routinely do hard tapping on the milling machine and lathe, rarely if ever stopping on aluminum. Stanless, inconel, etc. different story. Tapmagic for aluminum or in a pinch kerosene is good for tapping.
__________________
Please don't PM me! Email only!
Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
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07-22-2014, 07:01 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 290
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Thank you
Thanks for all the guidance guys.
I'll follow the advice and see how things work out.
Many thanks
__________________
Simon Hitchen
Port Perry, ON, Canada
7 Tip Up, Titan XIO-360, Dual P-Mags, Airflow Performance matched Injectors, Sensenich FP Prop, Dynon Skyview, GTR-200, GTX-327
FLYING!
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