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  #1  
Old 06-22-2014, 02:23 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Default Bucking rivet in J-Channel

I'm working on my tailcone, and have this rivet to set that is on the bulkhead but hidden by the J-Channel. Oh, if I had only riveted the bulkhead before putting the J-channel in but the plans don't read that way…..

So can anyone give me an idea of the right tool to get in there and buck that rivet. I can't back-rivet. My tungsten bar is too fat. My elevator TE bar is too fat. What bar is ideal - I'll have to get it.

thanks!

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  #2  
Old 06-22-2014, 02:34 PM
YellowJacket RV9 YellowJacket RV9 is offline
 
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You may be able to slide something thin in there laying across the new rivet, and then back it up with a bucking bar as close as possible to the J-channel, kind of forming a T if that makes any sense. Hold the steel bar level with one hand and the bucking bar against it with the other. I've used this technique in a few areas, and the shop heads aren't always perfect, but completely acceptable and never visible again anyways. And I feel better for not having broken down and used a blind rivet.

Chris
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  #3  
Old 06-22-2014, 02:43 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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You just need a bucking bar with a "foot" on it - like this one from Avery -



Also, maybe one with an angled end might work -

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6007
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Last edited by az_gila : 06-22-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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  #4  
Old 06-22-2014, 02:49 PM
YellowJacket RV9 YellowJacket RV9 is offline
 
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Also a good idea. I have that bar and also ground down the inside radius of the foot so I could get it into tighter areas like the one you have. Don't be afraid to modify bucking bars. Most of mine are 'custom' at this point...

Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
You just need a bucking bar with a "foot" on it - like this one from Avery -



Also, maybe one with an angled end might work -

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6007
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:06 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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If the tungsten bar won't lay flat, then you might just have to MAKE a bucking device. I have made at least 6 even with the stable of the tungsten and Avery assortment. I am in the process of making another one to set two rivets on the lower firewall where the motor mount blocks normal methods.

Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:21 PM
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GHRoss3 GHRoss3 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.
Just be careful that you don't mix a Scotchbrite used on steel and any future aluminum part. Rust can and will form.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:48 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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I've read that about the scotchbrite wheel. I've also read of people "dressing" the wheel to even it out. What is used to dress it if not steel?
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  #8  
Old 06-23-2014, 04:29 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is online now
 
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An old file you don't want anymore.
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  #9  
Old 06-23-2014, 04:16 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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That's what I thought, and the file would be made of steel? I'm just curious, not wanting to make a fuss?.
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  #10  
Old 06-23-2014, 05:13 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
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I think that my tungsten bar would work for the job. It also came in handy attaching the flap skin to the spar. the beveled edge is great.






It was $105, but I use it all the time.


Ken
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