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06-22-2014, 02:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,055
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Bucking rivet in J-Channel
I'm working on my tailcone, and have this rivet to set that is on the bulkhead but hidden by the J-Channel. Oh, if I had only riveted the bulkhead before putting the J-channel in but the plans don't read that way…..
So can anyone give me an idea of the right tool to get in there and buck that rivet. I can't back-rivet. My tungsten bar is too fat. My elevator TE bar is too fat. What bar is ideal - I'll have to get it.
thanks!
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Ser 104142, RV-14A flying - N1463 
Ser 83825, RV-8 building - N8638? 
USN Ret, Urologist, AME, Repeat Offender
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06-22-2014, 02:34 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL KCLW
Posts: 1,281
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You may be able to slide something thin in there laying across the new rivet, and then back it up with a bucking bar as close as possible to the J-channel, kind of forming a T if that makes any sense. Hold the steel bar level with one hand and the bucking bar against it with the other. I've used this technique in a few areas, and the shop heads aren't always perfect, but completely acceptable and never visible again anyways. And I feel better for not having broken down and used a blind rivet.
Chris
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Chris Johnson
RV-9A - Done(ish) 4/5/16! Flying 4/7/16
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06-22-2014, 02:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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You just need a bucking bar with a "foot" on it - like this one from Avery -
Also, maybe one with an angled end might work -
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6007
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
Last edited by az_gila : 06-22-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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06-22-2014, 02:49 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL KCLW
Posts: 1,281
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Also a good idea. I have that bar and also ground down the inside radius of the foot so I could get it into tighter areas like the one you have. Don't be afraid to modify bucking bars. Most of mine are 'custom' at this point...
Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
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__________________
Chris Johnson
RV-9A - Done(ish) 4/5/16! Flying 4/7/16
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06-22-2014, 03:06 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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If the tungsten bar won't lay flat, then you might just have to MAKE a bucking device. I have made at least 6 even with the stable of the tungsten and Avery assortment. I am in the process of making another one to set two rivets on the lower firewall where the motor mount blocks normal methods.
Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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06-22-2014, 07:21 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Niceville, FL
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL
Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.
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Just be careful that you don't mix a Scotchbrite used on steel and any future aluminum part. Rust can and will form.
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After Oshkosh '91, began dreaming of my RV-?
Tool kit in hand, May 12
Exempt but still renew VAF Dues each Dec
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06-22-2014, 09:48 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,055
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I've read that about the scotchbrite wheel. I've also read of people "dressing" the wheel to even it out. What is used to dress it if not steel?
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Ser 104142, RV-14A flying - N1463 
Ser 83825, RV-8 building - N8638? 
USN Ret, Urologist, AME, Repeat Offender
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06-23-2014, 04:29 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,408
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An old file you don't want anymore.
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Thanks Ron
RV-10 SOLD
RV-14 Flying
AirCam flying
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06-23-2014, 04:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,055
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That's what I thought, and the file would be made of steel? I'm just curious, not wanting to make a fuss?.
__________________
Ser 104142, RV-14A flying - N1463 
Ser 83825, RV-8 building - N8638? 
USN Ret, Urologist, AME, Repeat Offender
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06-23-2014, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midland, mi
Posts: 962
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I think that my tungsten bar would work for the job. It also came in handy attaching the flap skin to the spar. the beveled edge is great.
It was $105, but I use it all the time.
Ken
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Ken Stockman
Midland, MI
EAA Chapter 1093 member
FaceBook Page: Ken's RV-14
RV-14a (serial number 140073)
N73XP
Plane at hangar and the wings ON.
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