|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

06-14-2014, 07:26 PM
|
|
|
whatever you want
You can do whatever you want. The point I'm attempting to make is that when you deviate from the plans you should have some idea as to what is a valid substitute.
You can glue the wing skins on, Grumman used to do it, but that doesn't make it the correct thing to do.
A call to Vans would be a much better idea than seeking advice from the "experts" on this site.
Don't get me wrong there are some very knowledgeable people who post but there are also ones who don't have a clue and are willing to pipe up with advice.
|

06-14-2014, 07:53 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 19
|
|
"Exactly what are your credentials for offering advice?...from Paul Mosher"
I built an airplane, a Bushcaddy R-120...using blind rivets in 90 % of the structure. Many kit planes are built with blind rivets...check out the Zenith line.
__________________
Don...
KPYM
Donation Made For 2018
Last edited by Gooniebird : 06-14-2014 at 08:07 PM.
|

06-14-2014, 08:41 PM
|
|
|
expert
Gee I guess following the plans for one airplane makes you a expert on all things aeronautical. I have worked in the airlines for 25 years on everything from overhaul, line service, sheet metal tech crew chief to avionics. Built the prototype XB47, started the production line at Eclipse jet (a blind fastener airplane) and literally wrote the SRM (structural repair manual) for the Gulfstream G280. Spent many years doing non routine structural repairs in conjunction with engineering.
Has this become a pissing contest?
|

06-14-2014, 08:58 PM
|
|
|
the point
Is that those plans called out blind fasteners. In this case the plans call for hard rivets.
|

06-14-2014, 10:22 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney, Aust.
Posts: 820
|
|
No...
The point is, that in an experimental aircraft, you are perfectly entitled and in many cases encouraged, to modify the aircraft to better suit your needs.
Just because the plans say use part X doesn't mean you cannot use part Y or it "is a sin" to use part Z. The -9 use designed to use a -320. I'm using a -340. Others use a -360. They are all acceptable engines, though they may not all be endorsed by Vans.
As for looking crappy, beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder anyway.
I'm not pitting my qualifications in aeronautical engineering against yours - I'd lose spectacularly - but, there is always more than one way to do something. It may not necessarily be "as good", but so long as it isn't unsafe, then there is nothing inherently wrong with taking the alternative route.
__________________
Once you have tasted flight you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return - Leonardo DaVinci
My Flickr gallery: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35521362@N06/
RV-9A - Finished on 10th February 2016 after 4 years, 9 months and 19 days! The 1020th RV-9 flying.
First flight 26th March 2016. Essential specs 145KTAS @ 2400RPM, 8000', 24.2LPH, Initial RoC 1800FPM.
|

06-15-2014, 01:14 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 882
|
|
What do you hope to achieve?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BD4Guy
Is there any reason Van's baffle kit could not be assembled with pulled rivets?
Do the baffle stiffeners really need to be dimpled?
I won't be mounting my oil cooler on the baffles. My old, non-Van's baffles used pulled rivets exclusively. I'd rather not need to buy tools like a dimpler just to install baffles.
Thanks
|
If it's just the tools that you are concerned about, you could always look for someone willing to lend you theirs. The actual dimpling and riveting of the baffles can be done in a single day if you've already fitted and match drilled them. Perhaps someone can lend you a little time in their shop or hangar when you are ready to dimple and rivet.
Skylor
RV-8
Last edited by skylor : 06-15-2014 at 10:42 AM.
|

06-15-2014, 06:34 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: n. wi
Posts: 778
|
|
seems that this thread is mostly about esthetics and ''purists'' ideals. certainly in some areas rivet choice matters but on a baffle? come on.
the plane i built didn't even have a plan for firewall forward. blind rivits and nutplates were used for the baffles and i don't think it will ever come apart, and if it does i won't fall out of the sky.
a flathead screw may not look as good as a phillips but it does the job.
and temporary duct tape does work on the baffles when you are done building and testing temps by plugging holes! surprising that head temps go over 300 but most places the duct tape didn't even get soft.
__________________
Bob Noffs
n. wi.
dakota hawk/jab 3300 built and flying. sold 6/18.getting serious about the 12. in the hangar now as of 10/15/19
RV-12 kit as of 9/13
|

06-15-2014, 06:45 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL KCLW
Posts: 1,281
|
|
I won't engage in the firefight, but would say to the OP that if you'd rather avoid buying a dimpler, rivet gun, etc, you could probably get by in this case with a simple pop-rivet dimpling tool and maybe vise-grip dimplers, as well as a simple rivet squeezer. Altogether wouldn't cost that much, and you will probably find uses for them down the road when making repairs or modifications.
__________________
Chris Johnson
RV-9A - Done(ish) 4/5/16! Flying 4/7/16
|

06-15-2014, 11:38 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 25
|
|
I guess I'll have to come clean. Even though I am a dues paying member of this website, I am not building an RV. I am replacing the tattered old baffles on my BD-4. I don't have much experience with rivets, nor do I have all the tools. What really stopped me in my tracks when reading the plans for these baffles was step 2, which says "Dimple the rivet holes in the doubler plates and corresponding holes in the cylinder 4 baffle. Rivet....flush head on the inboard side." Dimple a doubler plate? Is the space that tight?
As far as modifying the baffles... Don't they have to be cut down to fit the cowling?
If Van's just used rivets for commonality of parts used throughout the airplane, that makes sense. I'm not building an RV ( although I'd love to have an -8!) I'm not hanging an oil cooler on the baffles, and I am adding strength via a metal plenum cover.
Mr. Mosher, your credentials are impressive. Given that this is not for an RV, what blind, pulled or pop rivets would you recommend?
Thanks, everybody.
__________________
Donated 2013.
|

06-15-2014, 12:46 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,090
|
|
You will need to dimple for those rivets you mentioned, the inside of those areas are flat against the head so there is no clearance. So save buying multiple tools and rivets, you can use a 1/8" pop rivet dimpler and 1/8" rivets for those doubler instead of the 3/32 rivets called out.
__________________
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:35 AM.
|