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06-12-2014, 09:06 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock
The maroon pads stick perfect on my random orbital. It's actually not aggressive. They work great and fast.
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I was going to say the same thing. A maroon pad on a random orbital makes very quick work of deburring match-drilled holes in wing skins.  It feels a little like cheating, but I manage to live with myself afterwards.
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Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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06-12-2014, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotRPI
I learned a neat trick this weekend. Instead of manually using scotchbrite pads, I met someone using an angle die grinder with 3M roloc wheels. He suggested using the very fine blue discs instead of the maroon, as the high speed may be too aggressive with the maroon.
So those discs, acetone, and AKZO spray seems like a much better/quicker process for protection rather than some of the other things I've seen.
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Blue Roloc disks are about the equivalent "grit" to the maroon 7447 hand ScotchBrite sheets.
They don't use the same color coding system. 
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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06-12-2014, 11:59 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Boston Area
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
Blue Roloc disks are about the equivalent "grit" to the maroon 7447 hand ScotchBrite sheets.
They don't use the same color coding system. 
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Thanks for clarifying Gil. It was actually me that showed Jesse the blue discs over the weekend, but I was unclear it was the same grit as the maroon.
I know this thread is about AKZO but for the Sherwin Williams primer I am finding that I don't even need to scuff the surface and it has good adhesion. Just a quick clean with Acetone and good to go.
__________________
Jeff
RV-14A
Status: Wings complete(ish), Working on: Empennage. Fuselage kit on order
Location:MA
http://vans14a.blogspot.com/
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12-18-2014, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 250
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Newbie question: when you all talk about AKZO, which Akzo are you referring to, exactly? They seem to have a lot of different products.
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12-18-2014, 11:46 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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12-19-2014, 10:01 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: silverdale, WA
Posts: 208
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Interior Primer
The description is "interior" primer. My impression is that this would be fine as a primer under a finish exterior paint, but that it would not handle UV long term on it's own, hence the "interior" Is this correct?
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12-19-2014, 08:12 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Savannah
Posts: 806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longline
The description is "interior" primer. My impression is that this would be fine as a primer under a finish exterior paint, but that it would not handle UV long term on it's own, hence the "interior" Is this correct?
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Yes, many airframe manufacturers use this primer, or a similar solvent resistant primer on the outside of the structure. When top coat paint is applied to the exterior the solvent resistant primer is usually scuff sanded and a fresh coat of primer that is compatible with the top coat is applied prior to the top coat paint application.
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Mike Hammond
A&P IA PPL ASEL
RV-14A kit S/N 140170
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06-08-2017, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 397
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Reviving an old thread here.....
I plan on going the scuff/clean/Akzo route. Those who did this process BEFORE dimpling, did it hold up well?
I hope to prime in larger parts batches before dimpling, then do any small touch ups necessary with a primer pen if needed after a file or minor trim, if it makes sense to do so in some areas.
I may plan on chemically etching with 50/50 Alumiprep/Water or EkoEtch along with the maroon pads if it would help hold to a dimple.
__________________
Brad Brensing
RV-10 Emp/Tailcone - Complete, QB Wings - Building, Fuse - Building
Never judge a man by his trim tabs.
Last edited by iwannarv : 06-08-2017 at 09:53 PM.
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06-08-2017, 09:34 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Process
Quote:
Originally Posted by iwannarv
Reviving an old thread here.....
I plan on going the scuff/clean/Azko route. Those who did this process BEFORE dimpling, did it hold up well?
I hope to prime in larger parts batches before dimpling, then do any small touch ups necessary with a primer pen if needed after a file or minor trim, if it makes sense to do so in some areas.
I may plan on chemically etching with 50/50 Alumiprep/Water or EkoEtch along with the maroon pads if it would help hold to a dimple.
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Basically how I did it. In my case the primer is P60G2.
One caveot. The real issue with paint prep on aluminum is removal of aluminum oxide before spraying the paint. If you scuff first, there's no way to get paint on before the AO forms again so pick your poison. Personally, I clean with Bon Ami and grey scotchbrite before spraying. Alumiprep would work fine too.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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06-08-2017, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 397
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Thanks - I intend only on doing this to interior surfaces when they are ready to prime. Not on the exterior surfaces or rivet lines. I'll let a pro painter do that prep (someday, hopefully).
__________________
Brad Brensing
RV-10 Emp/Tailcone - Complete, QB Wings - Building, Fuse - Building
Never judge a man by his trim tabs.
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