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06-08-2014, 04:15 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 16
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Funny You mention icing...
Kinda like putting decorative icing trim on a cake.
Actually, I found a cake icing kit at a garage sale and used that. It had these syringe-like shooters with several tips and it only cost me $5. I used half of the kit on the left wing and threw the pieces away when I was done and used the remaining half on the right tank and then threw them away. The best 5 bucks I've spent so far...
__________________
Rick Vinas
RV7A Emp started 12/09
Wing Kit Arrived!07/31/13
Wing building underway
SEL C/I Pilot
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06-08-2014, 04:35 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 78
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Retaining Ring
The manual says that there is no need to seal the retaining ring, to just rivet it in with the rib and nut plates. Is that adequate, or would some sealant on that part be the better way to go?
-John
RV-7A
Houston (Wings, Tanks)
Last edited by compren : 06-09-2014 at 07:27 AM.
Reason: Bad Grammar :(
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06-08-2014, 04:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,687
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My 2c, I only use PRC (the real "Pro-seal") inside fuel tanks.
http://www.skygeek.com/prc-desoto-ps...lant-pint.html
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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06-08-2014, 05:06 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Ring
Quote:
Originally Posted by compren
The manual says that there is no need to seal the retaining ring, to just rivet it in with the rib and nut plates. Is that adequate, would would some sealant on that part be the better way to go?
-John
RV-7A
Houston (Wings, Tanks)
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What's the retaining ring? The ring around the access hole inside? I sealed it and the floating platenuts I used.
I can't think of any two parts I didn't seal. Any place fuel could escape. If it was inside the tank, I didn't seal it but interior screws and fittings were sealed. Now the access panel... that's another primer war!
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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06-08-2014, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Whatever you do, DO NOT clean up the proseal (or substitute) with MEK or it will leak later on.
Let it harden and sand it smooth before painting.
On the top of my left tank I cleaned off excess pro seal with MEK and that was the only place I had paint blisters.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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06-09-2014, 08:11 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Stilwell, KS
Posts: 1,096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt
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Walt, can you elaborate why?
Has anyone had problems using Rick's method of delayed riveting with the newer FlameMaster brand sold by Van's? (I'm inherently messy, so any technique to reduce sealant slop is welcomed.  )
__________________
Katie Bosman
RV-3B sold, but flying!
Next project: ???
Builders gonna build...
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06-09-2014, 08:54 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 133
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Good suggestions all. I'll add one that I found useful. I used the large veterinary syringes to apply sealant, but found them very hard to squeeze by hand. maybe it was because of cool temps in my shop at the time, but eventually I found it was possible to chuck the syringe into a standard caulking gun. That made the squeezing much easier. 
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Ivan Luke
Hope Valley, RI
RV-7 SB
Just hung the engine!
2020 dues paid
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06-09-2014, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 171
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my best tip is to mix 1oz at a time, use large popsicle sticks (purchased at a craft store) to mix, etc... and scoop it into the corner of a baggie. Twist and tape off the excess baggie and then cut the corner. You can then hold and squeeze out just what you need, where you need it. Just like an icing bag.
I also use the acid brushes cut to about 1/4-1/2" so they're stiff to spread the sealant where I want it.
Use lots of sealant to cover and fillet between ribs and skin!
I would NOT seal the cover with proseal. (tried it... was extremely hard to remove) I also didn't have good luck with cork gasket (even with proseal on each side) It leaked repeatedly. I'm doing a tank repair now and will use the "access panel" version of proseal found at skygeek this time around. Supposed to be less sticky.
__________________
Clay R- RV9A - Flying since 2004 - 400 hours
VAF dues paid through end of 2020.
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06-14-2014, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cumming, Georgia
Posts: 873
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A lot of good suggestions.
My wife and I put on the old clothes and I already had the ribs fluted and the stands made. Old clothes because that pro seal stuff will jump out and attack you and everything else in sight.
I did the initial. With the filler tank install and the sump drain, and vent line.
We buttered up one rib and clecoed them in place then applied pro seal to each rivet and then riveted it in place and continued until we got them all in. Then we put used a Popsicle stick and edged the ribs. We initially did every other rivet on each rib and then came back and put in the missing rivets before moving on to the next rib Then we put a dab of pro seal around each bucked rivet using bamboo skews and then cleaned up all the excess pro seal on one tank and then started the other.
The next day we did the back plate and the sealed up the rest of the tank it took more time to clean the cleco's and tools and the ribs up than it did to rivet them.
We used the cork seals and even though our latex balloons did not deflate even after 4 months. As soon as I filled them up with fuel one leaked at the cover plate and sending unit.
I removed the cover and the cork and just used pro seal to seal the cover. No more leaks. I did both tanks .
Jack
__________________
Smilin' Jack & Anita Hunt
N507H RV7, KJZP Jasper, GA
EAA690
APRS/ WB4JKY
Retired Corporate Pilot CFI-AI, MEL
CE500, LRJT, HS25, C650, SBJT, CL60
Hunt Aviation, LLC.
Pilot Service, IPC's Biennials.
Comm Glider
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06-14-2014, 04:48 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Rick's method
Quote:
Originally Posted by KatieB
Walt, can you elaborate why?
Has anyone had problems using Rick's method of delayed riveting with the newer FlameMaster brand sold by Van's? (I'm inherently messy, so any technique to reduce sealant slop is welcomed.  )
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That's exactly how I did mine with Vans proseal. They sat for two days before setting rivets. Pressure tested good. No fuel yet so the fingers remain crossed.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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