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  #11  
Old 01-14-2014, 08:15 PM
BobRv4 BobRv4 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 124
Default Tail wheel

I tried the light weight tail wheel, way TOO hard for my liking.
Went back to the old style grease slinging wheel, rides much nicer.
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2014, 08:17 AM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Location: Mount Vernon, IN
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Our deluxe tire is a good compromise. No grease required and a medium ride. Very durable too.

Tailwheel stuff
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2014, 05:35 PM
precession precession is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 146
Default Torch for removal, anti-seize before it goes back in

Found my tail spring seemingly fused into the tube when I tried to remove it a few of years back. Absolutely nothing would budge it, which was really frustrating. Finally thought of heating it (the unpainted spring, not the painted tube) with a torch, which did the trick nicely.

I had that thing slathered in anti-seize before it went back in. Might be a good idea on new builds too, although I don't know about any other than Vans' stock.
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2014, 06:58 PM
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Neal@F14 Neal@F14 is offline
 
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Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 2,182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfrazier View Post
Our deluxe tire is a good compromise. No grease required and a medium ride. Very durable too.
Yep, the "ride" is almost exactly the same as the stock Vans grease slinger tailwheel. I run one on my RV-6 and like it a lot. The 6 oz weight savings is welcome too. I ran over something and knocked a big chunk of rubber out of my first one and immediately bought another one to replace it. My damaged wheel still rolled just fine, but at only $74 for a replacement it was a no-brainer to put a new one on my plane. I also run a Screaming Eagle tailwheel fork and the steering improvement was definitely noticeable the first time I taxiied with it.
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  #15  
Old 06-04-2014, 06:04 AM
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Capflyer Capflyer is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,082
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Well, my repair from two months ago failed miserably and my tail spring snapped last night while taxiing. Long story but now I need to replace my tail spring and complete tail wheel assembly. The tail spring in my RV4 is similar to the straight spring in this picture. Since I do not have one of the tapered springs to compare the mounting hole location as shown in this picture I'm wondering where I can find the same untapered spring. The one from Van's seems to be the tapered version. The untapered spring is probably shorter as well since I was not able to use the JD Link when I tried it a couple of years ago.

Thanks Paul for the picture you posted. It is exactly what I needed.

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  #16  
Old 06-04-2014, 10:35 AM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Location: Mount Vernon, IN
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Mike,

Can you drill a new hole a bit farther forward? It might make the overall installation easier since you'll get a new, perfectly matched hole and all new parts.

We've got all the parts you'll need in stock.
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www.f1aircraft.com
F1 Rocket and F4 Raider components
1-888-F1AIRCRAFT (1-888-312-4727)
www.flyboyaccessories.com
RV and Rocket Accessories, Tailwheels, Tools, & More
1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269)

F4 Raider - under construction
F1-H Rocket "Crazy Horse" - sold
RV-4 "Chief Pontiac" - sold in 1994, purchased in 2018
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  #17  
Old 06-04-2014, 01:04 PM
131RB 131RB is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 302
Default Lang air

Speak with Harmon at harmon@langair.com
I ran into this issue several years ago. He can make you a new spring and match drill it to your old one for a reasonable cost. He makes several of the gear components for Vans.
Ryan
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  #18  
Old 06-05-2014, 10:16 AM
Nate-ISU Nate-ISU is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 51
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Mike,

I recently went through a similar scenario, where my tail spring broke at the tailwheel assembly attach point at the aft end of the spring. I purchased a new tapered spring and tailwheel assembly from Flyboys.

I had the same problem with my old untapered tailspring, where the weldment mounting hole was too far aft as shown in the picture. Mine wasn't quite as far aft as is shown, if I recall just about half a hole. I did as Vince suggested and placed the new mount hole just forward of where the spring begins to taper.

I then began pushing the spring forward in the weldment until the tailspring hole lined up with the existing weldment hole and installed a new bolt & nylon nut. Moving the mount hole means the spring was short about 1/4" from being able to be pushed fully forward & butted up against the vertical piece of the internal weldment. However, there is still plenty of contact at the two places the rod mates with the weldment.

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