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  #11  
Old 05-26-2014, 07:01 PM
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Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbone View Post
I have used both on several broken off bolts. Some as much as an inch below with a stick welder. The flux will protect the the threads. About the easiest in my book if you broke a carbide off in it!
Ya welding is definitely the way to go, never had much luck with other methods but it?s not in everyone?s skill set.
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  #12  
Old 05-27-2014, 07:13 AM
Loman Loman is offline
 
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Default I can't weld

Welding is not, as Russ says, within my skill set. Mine was an academic education, unfortunately.

I clearly don't understand enough about MIG/TIG welding if, as Terry says, the flux will protect the threads. However, I bet I can get hold of someone (and their machine) who does understand.

On the other hand, the worst that can happen by trying a burr is that it won't 'cut it' in any sense of those words. So I am still going to try that first because I don't see that it can make things much worse and at least the process is entirely within my own control.
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2014, 10:13 AM
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flyenforfun flyenforfun is offline
 
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Default I hate when that happens.

Wow, I hate when that happens. One time I broke a drill bit off the same way in another type of situation. A friend of mine lent me some left handed drill bits (that's a drill bit that's drills in, going in reverse in case you didn't know) and it grabbed the broken bit and spun the bit and screw out. Maybe I just got lucky but it might be worth a try. I think he got them a Sears.
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2014, 11:03 AM
mahlon_r mahlon_r is offline
 
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Many times that screw is broken off because the hole is a 10-24 hole and someone screws a 10-32 screw into it and makes a mess of the threads and then the 10-32 screw picks up and when you try to remove it, the screw head breaks off because the steel screw has become one with the alum head.
A last ditch effort is to heat up what is left of the screw until molten with a oxy-acetylene torch, set with a very pin point inner flame, and once the screw is molten, blow the molten steel out of the hole. The aluminum dissipates the heat way faster then the steel so the steel melts before the aluminum and the cylinder shouldn't be damaged, if done carefully.
Also if you fail at all attempts. Don't replace the cylinder, just trade places with another one that still has a functional hole. Move the cylinder , piston and rings as one, and just replace seals and gaskets. you will be OK and spend considerably less than a replacement cylinder.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
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Last edited by mahlon_r : 05-27-2014 at 11:09 AM.
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2014, 11:17 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahlon_r View Post
Also if you fail at all attempts. Don't replace the cylinder, just trade places with another one that still has a functional hole. Move the cylinder , piston and rings as one, and just replace seals and gaskets. you will be OK and spend considerably less than a replacement cylinder.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
Now that is a true gem of an idea.
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  #16  
Old 05-27-2014, 11:41 AM
pilotdds pilotdds is offline
 
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Default dental drill

I have had to remove broken bits in similar situations-a dental drill with used 330 bits are the best but 556 or 557 works also-it will grind the drill bit right out-I can loan you a dental handpiece and burs f you cover shipping both ways-but after you use it you will want one-pm if I can help
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  #17  
Old 05-27-2014, 04:27 PM
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You have to love it when Mahlon still trolls these boards and provides us with his wisdom and knowledge.

Thank You Mahlon.....
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  #18  
Old 05-27-2014, 06:25 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loman View Post
snip . . <It is slightly bigger at about 2.4mm I was using low speed and high pressure, which I thought was the correct procedure for hard metals. . . . > . . snip
You are correct, but the screw in the core is just not that hard, and don't use pressure with a pre drilled hole.

Don't forget - heli-coil

i am 50:1 against getting the thing to back out, worth a try but don't break off the ez-out.

Yeah, the TIG would save your day if someone there can roll one over to your hangar. Trust the experts that have spoken. I would not even think about engine disassembly for this, you can fix it much easier than that!.
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  #19  
Old 05-28-2014, 10:02 AM
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edsong edsong is offline
 
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Default Mig welding

I get 99% of broken bolts out by welding a washer on first. AN970 washers works best. Easier to make contact with the broken bolt if it's lower than the surface. The washer can be a size bigger than the bolt. The weld won't stick to the aluminum cylinder. Then tack weld a nut on the washer and turn the bolt out.
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