VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV General Discussion/News
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-22-2014, 02:50 AM
Eddie Eddie is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Africa
Posts: 24
Default Removing the cabin heat system

Hi all

My firewall gets very hot and I know that the cabin heat system is the culprit. I live in sunny South Africa, but my RV6 was built in Vancouver. It has 2 heat muffs that feed from the rear baffles on either side, through the muffs and then blows it against the firewall on both sides, which creates all the heat on the firewall. (picture attached) I am yet to be cold in the RV, but I have had many sweaty rides in summer.
My plan is to remove the entire system and close off the holes at the back of the baffles and put some heat protection on the cowl where the heat muffs where.

Any tips or warnings when doing this?
__________________
Remove (ego) before flight
RV-10, ZU-RVI
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-22-2014, 04:56 AM
curtis's Avatar
curtis curtis is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 384
Default

Two things I do during the summer;
1 - Remove the heat muff assembly from exhaust
2 - I attach the fresh air scat hose from the baffle directly to the firewall connection. This is another source of ambient air in the summer.
__________________
RV-6A Slider
550 hours +

Build it light and cheap
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-22-2014, 04:56 AM
pierre smith's Avatar
pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ga
Posts: 7,840
Default

Hi Eddie...be sure and block the firewall holes with stainless (obviously).

Best,
__________________
Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (502Hrs), gone...and already missed
Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
Air Tractor 402 PT-6-20 Sold
EAA Flight Advisor/CFI/Tech Counselor
Louisville, Ga

It's never skill or craftsmanship that completes airplanes, it's the will to do so,
Patrick Kenny, EAA 275132


Dues gladly paid!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-22-2014, 05:07 AM
rmartingt's Avatar
rmartingt rmartingt is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie View Post
It has 2 heat muffs that feed from the rear baffles on either side, through the muffs and then blows it against the firewall on both sides, which creates all the heat on the firewall.
Wait a minute... are you saying that the air from the heat muffs doesn't go into the cabin, it just blows against the firewall and exhausts into the cowling enclosure, and does not go into the cabin? That seems like an awful strange way to do cabin heat, but that's what it looks like from the picture.

If that really is the case, I see no harm in doing exactly what you propose.
__________________
RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-22-2014, 05:46 AM
F1R F1R is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ____
Posts: 829
Default

Post #2 is what I do. Remove the heat muff from the exhaust for the summer but I link the air from the baffle port direct to the firewall to feed fresh air to the cockpit. In the fall , I put the muffs back on and re plumb through the muffs.

Since you have a carb, not Fuel injection, there is no safety issue getting ventilation air where it now comes from and I would be inclined to keep using your baffle feed ports for CABIN ventilation.

If you have other cold air only vents for the cockpit, then you could close off the baffle ports.

It is important to actually take the muffs off the exhaust pipes if you do not have air moving through them for the summer.

Last edited by F1R : 05-22-2014 at 10:29 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-22-2014, 05:50 AM
rzbill's Avatar
rzbill rzbill is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
Default

Like Curtis said:

Remove the muffs from the exhaust pipes. Without the air going through the muffs, the exhaust pipes get hotter than normal, shortening the exhaust pipe life. Removing the muff solves this.

Block the hole in the engine baffles.

Your choice on whether to do anything with the valve on the firewall. If there is chance of future sale, you might choose to leave that valve as it is.

Secondarily, I find you comment about the firewall getting hot unusual. I have dual muffs on my craft (as does another RV near me that I fly with sometimes). In neither craft is any unwanted heat noticed while the heater valve is shut. Are you positive that your heater valve is closing properly??
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-22-2014, 05:59 AM
DanH's Avatar
DanH DanH is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
Default

Is that a sheet of Dynaliner closed cell rubber sheet insulation on the firewall?
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-22-2014, 07:15 AM
Eddie Eddie is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Africa
Posts: 24
Default

Wow... the power of VAF, Thanks guys

The previous owner closed the valves properly with another piece of stainless and screws. (1st sign of hot cabin) So I cant use it anyway...

I will close off the baffle holes with stainless plates, maybe make a couple of small holes to ensure ventilation between firewall and engine?

Yes Dan, that is 1/4" Dynaliner on the firewall, you ask as if it might cause a problem there... It is almost impossible to get to the firewall on the inside on a flying plane. So after they told me its safe and fireproof, I put it on the easier side of the firewall. It does make a difference in heat and noise, but I know the hot air is still being pumped onto it.
__________________
Remove (ego) before flight
RV-10, ZU-RVI
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-22-2014, 08:58 AM
jaradtke's Avatar
jaradtke jaradtke is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lutz FL
Posts: 116
Default

The valve is mounted upside down. The source air is blowing directed up the firewall, when the valve is closed, instead of down and out the bottom on the cowling.
__________________
Jeff Radtke
Lutz, FL
RV-7A - SOLD
RV-7A - New Build
Tail Feathers - Complete
ER Wings - Complete
Fuselage - Complete
Finish - Started
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-23-2014, 11:25 AM
Beancounter Beancounter is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 100
Default firewall insulation

Eddie
Your part of a community here and we try to look out for each other. Dan questioned the use of the rubber on the firewall because it will burn and smoke vigorously in the event of an engine compartment fire. That toxic smoke will find its way into the cabin. Please consider using ceramic fiber blanket. Common practice is to apply it to the hotside of the firewall covered with thin stainless sheet. This product has superior insulation qualities to rubber.
__________________
C-GVMK
RV9a Slow(ly) built
Flying as of July 2012
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:39 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.