Pro-Seal vs. Gasket

[Randle]

I use 3M or PPG-DeSoto B class sealants to seal my tanks and access panel. I MEK?d the panel and tank, applied a thin layer, ran the bolts down until the sealant just started to squeeze out, let it set until it was almost cured then final torqued the bolts. Give the sealant a couple hours to cure, I know many will gasp at my next comment, but I will then pressure check the tank at 1.5 psig then increase to 2 psig (TMDE calibrated low pressure gauge). No leaks and have had to remove the panel before without problem, I heat the sealant with a heat gun to remove it, works like a champ.

I do not use Van?s kit nutplates, I used the encapsulated nutplates and a non-adhering gasket for the floats I made with sealant. Bolts go in dry, and if I have a problem with the float, I can pop in off and back on without even thinking about sealant.

[Maxrate]

Mark,

After some research I found a product that the airlines use as a temporary sealer for tank access doors on most Boeing aircraft. The tanks have to be entered into at C and D checks or to make repairs to weeping rivets. I'm about to close my tanks up and just ordered some. I plan on mixing some and applying it to some scrap. Ill let it dry and strip it with a plastic scraper and report back.

CS3330 is used as an access door sealant for integral fuel tanks and pressurized cabins, as a strippable fillet, and as a gasket for removable parts.

http://sealpakcoinc.com/product/cs33...-door-sealant/

[Maxrate]

I received the access door sealant in the mail from Skygeek. $19.89 shipped to my door. The product number again is CS 3330 B-2. I cut the tube in 1/2 and mixed it 100 to 10 as instructed. I don't have the other tank ready to close up yet so I put the rest in the fridge. This stuff mixes like the vans tank sealant but sets up rather quickly. After buttering up the opening, I put the access door in place and dipped each screw in the sealant and screwed it down. The next morning it had a hard rubbery feel and had obviously set up. I then proceeded to test the tank for 24HRS in the house at 74deg F. This morning I woke up and the needle on my low pressure gauge had not moved off 1.3 PSI. The interesting difference between this product and standard tank sealant is how easily it is able to strip off a scrap of sheet metal. It dries like a rubber gasket that is perfectly formed to the two mating surfaces. There would only be about 10 minutes to completely strip this product and move on to fixing the issue that caused you to have to open up the tank in the first place.

Worth 20 bucks? Absolutely in my honest opinion.

[Rupester]

Thanks for the follow-up, Mark. Gonna have to get me some o' that stuff.

[Rupester]

...is there a shelf life on that tank sealant?

[Maxrate]

Terry,

The package date is 7/2013
Exp date 4/2014

It looks like 9 months.
Hope that helps.

Mark

[walkman]

I had a leaking tank before a trip, the rubber gasket had swelled and cracked. So I whipped up a set of access plate and fuel sender gaskets out of neoprene impregmated cork material that I got from autozone. After cleaning everything, I applied as thin a layer as possible of fuel lube to both sides of the gasket (a messy job for sure). I then reassembled with Allen head screws.

It was supposed to be a temporary fix to get me through a weekend, but has lasted a year and a half now. I had to tighten a couple of screws to stop a weeping area, but other than that it's fine.

[ClayR_9A]

Been trying to remove a proseal-only panel for 2 weeks now. Polygone isn't even working. For those that say this is "no-problem" they either got lucky when the time came to remove the panel, or they haven't tried to remove it yet.

I'll use the "less sticky" stuff if I ever get it off to re-seal.

More detail here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...68&postcount=9

-Clay

[Mel]

Originally Posted by ClayR_9A

Been trying to remove a proseal-only panel for 2 weeks now. Polygone isn't even working. For those that say this is "no-problem" they either got lucky when the time came to remove the panel, or they haven't tried to remove it yet.
I'll use the "less sticky" stuff if I ever get it off to re-seal.
More detail here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...68&postcount=9
-Clay

Been removing "pro-sealed only" cover plates for quite a few years and never had a problem.

[wirejock]

Here's an idea. It may not work but we used to use the smallest guitar string to cut through stuff like that.