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  #1  
Old 04-30-2014, 06:04 AM
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s10sakota s10sakota is offline
 
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Location: Westland, MI
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Default Flap/rivet?

Sorry I don't have the part number handy, but if you built your flaps you will recognize this rib and reinforcement plate!



The big hole is where the flap actuator attaches to a nutplate riveted to both the rib and bracket.

As you can see, one hole is countersunk in the bracket, but what about the other hole? (there's a cleco in the hole in the pic). This rib is way too thin to countersink...right?

What am I to do here?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2014, 06:31 AM
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derLuigi derLuigi is offline
 
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Location: Aachen, Germany
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Default

I used a NAS1097AD3 rivet here, that's a flush head AD3 rivet with a smaller head. You can get them from Van's, they're in "The List".

I read you could simply dimple the rib and dimple the lug of the nutplate as well, I've only tried that once though (wasn't impressed with the end result) and now use the NAS1097 most of the time.
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2014, 06:36 AM
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s10sakota s10sakota is offline
 
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Ok thanks Mario-I just ordered some from Vans!

More than likely I'll need some 'oops' rivets during the rest of the build anyway LOL.
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1962 Piper Cherokee 160
2003 RANS S-10
2011 RANS S-6S
2011 Vans RV-7
2015 Zenith Cruzer
1962 Mooney M20C
2019 KITFOX Super Sport
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2014, 07:23 AM
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aeroaddict aeroaddict is offline
 
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Default

What Mario said. I used my 6 fluted deburring tool to make a small countersink in the rib. I was careful on the countersink not to create a sharp edge in the hole. The rivet was not perfectly flush but has worked just fine.
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2014, 08:13 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Default

I install almost all of my nutplates with reduced head rivets. About 10 turns or so with a deburring tool makes a good countersink.
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2014, 09:38 AM
compren compren is offline
 
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Posts: 78
Default I did this last night

I dimpled the rib and countersunk the nut plate. Worked fine. I really don't see why you couldn't just use a AN470 here, but I'm also not done with my plane and don't know if anything sits flush to that location, so I chose to just follow the plans...
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2014, 10:10 AM
bill v bill v is offline
 
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Location: zeeland michigan
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Default an470

bought some long an470's and cut them to lenght when i find this type of situation. most times a 426 works but requires the work of countersinking. the opps #3 are more important as they have more uses i used a lot of them for nutplates and filling unused holes (ex. hole for steps if not using steps)
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  #8  
Old 04-30-2014, 10:25 AM
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s10sakota s10sakota is offline
 
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I did order the opps rivets (NAS1097).

I always thought that oops rivets had the same manuf. head but just had a slightly larger diameter shank?

Is there something different about the head that doesn't require as deep of a countersink?
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1962 Piper Cherokee 160
2003 RANS S-10
2011 RANS S-6S
2011 Vans RV-7
2015 Zenith Cruzer
1962 Mooney M20C
2019 KITFOX Super Sport
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  #9  
Old 04-30-2014, 10:28 AM
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s10sakota s10sakota is offline
 
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I like the idea of using an AN470 round head rivet better I think and I can't any issues with interference.

I think I will order some of these rivets and not worry about the countersinking on the thin rib.
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1962 Piper Cherokee 160
2003 RANS S-10
2011 RANS S-6S
2011 Vans RV-7
2015 Zenith Cruzer
1962 Mooney M20C
2019 KITFOX Super Sport
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  #10  
Old 04-30-2014, 10:58 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s10sakota View Post
I did order the opps rivets (NAS1097).

I always thought that oops rivets had the same manuf. head but just had a slightly larger diameter shank?

Is there something different about the head that doesn't require as deep of a countersink?
Actually the NAS rivets are "reduced head" rivets. The shanks are the same size for the same dash number, and the head is for a rivet with the next lower dash number. What happens is, if you enlarge a #3 hole, you go to a -4 rivet with a -3 head. With the nutplates, I use -3 rivets with a -2 head - very small, very shallow countersink required.


Quote:
Originally Posted by s10sakota View Post
I like the idea of using an AN470 round head rivet better I think and I can't any issues with interference.

I think I will order some of these rivets and not worry about the countersinking on the thin rib.
Not a bad solution, just make sure there aren't going to be any issues with overlapping parts; it happens sometimes (inspection covers and cockpit floors come to mind). Nutplate attach rivets see no tensile loads, so the shallow countersink for a -2 head is no problem.
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Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on site

Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album

1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982

'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
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