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04-28-2014, 09:20 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,261
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Filling concrete holes - Wing Jig
I just removed one of my wing jigs and now I have some holes from mounting the jigs to the floor. They are pretty small, I think 3/16" or maybe 1/4". What is the best way to fill these holes?
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Ray Tonks
2020 Donation Paid
Titan IOX-370, Dual PMAGs, 9.6:1 Pistons, FM-150
RV-7 Fuselage in progress
* Cabin Interior - In progress
RV-7 SB Wings
* Both Wings fully skinned
* Fuel Tanks Complete - No leaks finally
* Ailerons Complete
* Flaps Complete
RV-7 Empennage - Complete (a little fiberglass work left)
Vans Training Kit # 2 - Complete
RV-7 Preview Plans
Vans Training Kit #1 - Complete
EAA Sheet Metal Class - Complete
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04-28-2014, 09:47 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Posts: 1,019
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Go to Home(builders) Depot or Lowe Flyers and find some concrete crack filler/repair caulk. Simply fill in the hole.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rapid_ascent
I just removed one of my wing jigs and now I have some holes from mounting the jigs to the floor. They are pretty small, I think 3/16" or maybe 1/4". What is the best way to fill these holes?
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Carlos in Arizona
EAA Chapter 538 www.chapters.eaa.org/eaa538
Wittman Tailwind W8 N53CH (built & sold)
Pazmany PL-1 N2029 (bought & sold)
RV7 - N537TC (reserved & building)
Emp, Wings & Fuse done - working on FWF
"The air is an extremely dangerous, jealous and exacting mistress. Once under the spell most lovers are faithful to the end, which is not always old age." - Winston Churchill
Last edited by pazmanyflyer : 04-28-2014 at 09:50 PM.
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04-28-2014, 09:50 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO, Okemos MI
Posts: 2,645
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You can get some cement mortar patch to fill them most of the way, but it will chip out unless you get some of the resin -cement product for the top. The easiest would be to use epoxy and put a bit of cement dust on the top. I have done that on several occasions with good results.
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rockwoodrv9a
Williamston MI
O-320 D2A
Awaiting DAR Inspection
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04-28-2014, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,247
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Epoxy works and it's self leveling.
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Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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04-29-2014, 06:44 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Epoxy may be the easier alternative, but for future reference: If you can find a small package of Por-Rok, it is a cement type powder mixed with water sets in 60 min and does not shrink. 5000 psi strength. It is used as a hydraulic for waterproofing, and setting bolts in concrete. It is the best and cheapest. I have used this stuff for 40 yrs. $13 for 10 pounds, so you may not find a small package. Stores make more money off more flashy items.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
Last edited by BillL : 04-29-2014 at 09:54 AM.
Reason: spellin'
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04-29-2014, 09:03 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Holes
How did you remove the concrete anchors?
I will have the same repair in a few weeks.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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04-29-2014, 09:25 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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That's exactly why I bondoed mine to the floor. The residual bondo chips off easily.
Got the idea from reading Burt Rutan's Canard Pusher newsletters and the Long Eze plans. I'm a plans junky is why I had those.
On the other hand my jig is free-standing so it might be easier to make steady.
Dave
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04-29-2014, 09:38 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL
Epoxy may be the easier alternative, but for future reference: If you can find a small package of Por-Rok, it is a cement type power mixed with water sets in 60 min and does not shrink. 5000 psi strength.
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Ppr-Rok is good stuff.
I have also had good luck with simple mortar mix and adding Titebond or Willhold glue to it. Makes a good patching mix.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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04-29-2014, 10:13 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: In New Braunfels, ist das Leben schön!
Posts: 871
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As my garage floor shows the battle scars of building much like my workbenches, I went with an easy and cheap fill for my wing stand holes. Leftover resin from fiberglass work.
__________________
Larry New
RV-7A - Built, flying 900+ hrs
RV-10 - Built, flying 2.9 hrs
??? - RV-12, Subsonex
48 States in 7 Days!
VAF Paid - Annual Autodraft
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04-29-2014, 01:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,261
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I used Tapcon screws so there are no archors to remove. I guess a trip to Home Depot is in order to see what they have. The Por-Rok stuff seems like the best solution, but there may be equivalents. Thanks for all the feedback.
__________________
Ray Tonks
2020 Donation Paid
Titan IOX-370, Dual PMAGs, 9.6:1 Pistons, FM-150
RV-7 Fuselage in progress
* Cabin Interior - In progress
RV-7 SB Wings
* Both Wings fully skinned
* Fuel Tanks Complete - No leaks finally
* Ailerons Complete
* Flaps Complete
RV-7 Empennage - Complete (a little fiberglass work left)
Vans Training Kit # 2 - Complete
RV-7 Preview Plans
Vans Training Kit #1 - Complete
EAA Sheet Metal Class - Complete
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