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  #1  
Old 04-14-2014, 05:31 PM
RVdreamin RVdreamin is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Yulee, Fl
Posts: 64
Default Elevator dimpling

Guys,

Finishing up on empennage and working elevator. I am getting ready to dimple the skins for the stiffeners. Have you guys used the C-Frame to dimple the skins for the stiffeners? The only way I see to do it is to roll the skin back to get to the holes near the spar. Is that how you guys did it?

Thanks....
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2014, 05:54 PM
YellowJacket RV9 YellowJacket RV9 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL KCLW
Posts: 1,281
Default

I believe I did this before riveting to the spar. But in your case I would probably just use a pop-rivet dimpler for the hard to reach ones if you can't easily get to it with the c-frame. If you don't own the pop rivet dimpler, buy one now, along with the vise grimp dimplers. Worth it.

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1022

Chris
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Last edited by YellowJacket RV9 : 04-14-2014 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Corrected link for 3/32 pop dimpler
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2014, 08:05 PM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
Posts: 1,031
Default

I did two things to make this job easier for the springy elevator skins (works, too, for the ailerons). 1) I clamped a piece of scrap wood to the c-frame to extend the top of the C about 3-4 inches to keep the skin from getting anywhere near the c-frame or the hammer. 2) I clamped another piece of scrap to the bench along the line of the bend in the skin at a distance that gets close to placing the holes in the skin near the dies. This keeps the skin from springing back. You'll need to adjust the distance of the cross piece as you get closer to the apex of the bend, but it's easy to do. Do one row, flip the skin, do the row on the other side, and then adjust inward.

I don't have an actual picture of the setup, but I tossed the stuff together on the garage floor to help illustrate:



I "invented" this procedure after putting an unplanned dimple in my aileron skin when it jumped while dimpling. This prevented another call to Van's
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Last edited by wjb : 04-14-2014 at 08:16 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2014, 05:16 PM
RVdreamin RVdreamin is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Yulee, Fl
Posts: 64
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This is why I love this web page. I am a rookie at this but having a great time building and learning. This is about the 4th time I have gotten great ideas from this web page.
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RV-9A
Started Finished 10/16/14
Wings Finished 4/9/16
Fuselage working electrical
Finishing Kit received 9/11/19
HWY
VAF paid 2019
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  #5  
Old 04-16-2014, 09:35 AM
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Av8torTom Av8torTom is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Yardley, PA
Posts: 1,334
Default Pop Rivet Dimpler

I used a pop rivet dimpler - took a lot longer, but was a heck of a lot easier.
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  #6  
Old 04-16-2014, 10:37 PM
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AF_Alan AF_Alan is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 122
Default Edge of bench

I used the DRDT which is similar to the C-frame but uses hand lever instead of hammer. I slid the frame to the edge of the bench and draped the skin not being dimpled off the bench and skin being dimpled in the frame. Male die on top and female inside skin. Had to angle the frame and skins to reach some but did all the holes with the frame. Pop-rivet dimples didn't work well for me.

Good luck
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RV-9A N984AW
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  #7  
Old 04-17-2014, 05:32 AM
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Vlad Vlad is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,144
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A combination of hand squeezer with long yoke and home made DRDT dimpler did the work for me


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