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04-10-2014, 10:12 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 16
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Minimum tool outlay / required reading for RV-14?
Howdy from Texas! I?ve always been interested in the concept of building airplanes, and the RV-14 is finally the craft that matches my mission profile perfectly.
I?m currently building a house, and am about nine months from having a full workshop space. In ya?ll?s opinion, what tools are essential for getting started on the empennage section? Or are all the tools listed in the plans needed right off the bat? I have a small garage on my apartment, so there isn?t a reason I can?t purchase a drill press or other sizable equipment if needed, but there isn?t LOTS of space? Not to mention, I?ll have to move everything at some point.
I purchased from Van?s already copies of the AC 43.13, Kit Airplane Construction by Ronald J Wanttaja, and a ?Getting Started? DVD. What else can I start reading now to be prepared for construction?
Thank you all for your help in advance, and I?m excited to be able to join your community!
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04-10-2014, 10:30 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devious Rhesus
I purchased from Van?s already copies of the AC 43.13, Kit Airplane Construction by Ronald J Wanttaja, and a ?Getting Started? DVD. What else can I start reading now to be prepared for construction?
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I think you're pretty much set on reading material for now. Read the books, browse around on VAF, and check out some builders' logs.
What might be better than more reading material right now would be getting a little experience. You could attend an EAA class; I believe they have some on generic sheetmetal construction as well as an RV-specific class. Or (and?), try finding other builders in your area. Visit their projects, ask them questions, see if they need a hand riveting. You'll pick up more from spending a day or two in the shop than you will from reading more books. Plus, building that network and putting in that time now will pay off later, when you need a riveting partner or a special tool or just something to go look at when you're stumped. Just be willing to extend that same courtesy later on, when newer builders are looking for help.
__________________
RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
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04-10-2014, 10:35 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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For the tail feathers, you'll need all the tools required for drilling, dimpling, deburring, clecoing, countersinking, and riveting (both flush and blind type). Also the more general shop tools like clamps and aviation snips, etc. A large work table, with access from all sides, is also invaluable for the tail feather work.
__________________
Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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04-10-2014, 10:45 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,525
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I am not an expert, so this open for modification:
Being in TX, Avery tools is a great place to start. If it is clear you will be going for the long haul, then the Avery kit (full) is a good start. I added a soft scotchbrite wheel and use it on a HF buffer. Also if you go with air tools, then a compressor is needed. You could get by nicely with a good electric drill and hand squeezer until you have more room. One exception is the rivet gun it is needed and air is needed too. A pneumatic squeezer, die grinder, angle head die grinder etc, makes life easier too. Imaging building a house with a hammer and hand saw. It can be done, but not time effective.
Compressor: Long term a good 2 stage, 60 gal tank compressor of good quality will server you well.
Bench tools: Vise, bench drill press, 1" belt sander (consider a disc too), and a 9" band saw. I made soft jaws for the vise from a 5/8" thick kitchen cutting board.
Build a good rolling bench with most of the bench tools on it. A good (but not expensive) tool box nice to have too. Plan for a big one that rolls easily and lots of storage for the final collection. I got my bottom/top combo from Menards on sale with ball bearing drawers (a must have for me). The latch style drawers are better than snap-to-close because the bang to close them pushes the tools to the back. If all the drawers are unlatched and ball bearing rollers, you roll the box 2 feet and make a slow turn and all the drawers will open and the box will fall over. Bad result.
These are the tools I have used through out my 7 project.
Have fun!!
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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04-10-2014, 10:48 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Collierville, TN (KFYE)
Posts: 1,433
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In re: the drill motor, if I was starting today, I'd forget the pneumatic drill motor and get a higher end cordless drill. I recently bought a nice DeWalt cordless drill and haven't touched my Sioux drill motor since that time.
__________________
RV-8 #81077 Super Slow Build
Dynon Skyview HDX, Titan IOX-370, Dual P-Mags, AFP FM200A FI, Whirlwind 200RV CS Prop
First Flight 11/20/2016
www.marksrv8.com
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04-10-2014, 11:07 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,430
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Welcome to VAF!
Michael, welcome to VAF
If you are going to be running any air tools, I would suggest you get the biggest compressor you can ---------- 60 gal, twin cylinder, 220v is a good starting point.
I suggest you look into joining an EAA chapter near you, and get first hand "face-to-face" suggestions from the members, and also, find out what (if any) club tools that may be available------some things it doesnt make a lot of sense to buy if they can be borrowed.
On the front page of VAF (click the logo top of each page, upper left) there is a link called the "RV White Pages" this will let you see if there are any other VAF members in your vicinity-----good way to get first hand look at how a shop is setup and what you will be getting into.
Good luck, it is going to be a fun ride 
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
Last edited by Mike S : 04-10-2014 at 11:13 AM.
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04-10-2014, 11:09 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Dickens
In re: the drill motor, if I was starting today, I'd forget the pneumatic drill motor and get a higher end cordless drill. I recently bought a nice DeWalt cordless drill and haven't touched my Sioux drill motor since that time.
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Yeah, same here. I don't know that I've used the pneumatic at all since last Father's Day when I got a Ryobi Lithium powered drill combo. Before that I'd switch off between it and the NiCD powered B&D I'd been using for 15 years, so you can imagine how heavy that one was. With the new drill I get far better control over the speed than I did with the air or NiCD drill, and it's a LOT quieter than using the pneumatic.
And if you have not already done so... find your local EAA chapter and start attending meetings! Fellow builders are an invaluable resource.
__________________
Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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04-10-2014, 11:33 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Collierville, TN (KFYE)
Posts: 1,433
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I'm going to go against the grain here and say that unless you're using pneumatic tools requiring a lot of CFM, like a pneumatic drill motor or die grinder, you don't need a huge compressor. Yes, a large compressor will not run as often, but they are expensive, heavy and difficult to move around. I have a 25 gallon compressor that has done me just fine over the years and that's with using the Sioux drill motor. I'd even consider a (gasp) smaller unit if I was starting today without the Sioux.
__________________
RV-8 #81077 Super Slow Build
Dynon Skyview HDX, Titan IOX-370, Dual P-Mags, AFP FM200A FI, Whirlwind 200RV CS Prop
First Flight 11/20/2016
www.marksrv8.com
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04-10-2014, 01:58 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Dickens
I'm going to go against the grain here and say that unless you're using pneumatic tools requiring a lot of CFM, like a pneumatic drill motor or die grinder, you don't need a huge compressor. Yes, a large compressor will not run as often, but they are expensive, heavy and difficult to move around. I have a 25 gallon compressor that has done me just fine over the years and that's with using the Sioux drill motor. I'd even consider a (gasp) smaller unit if I was starting today without the Sioux.
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I'll second this, even if you do use a lot of air on occasion. A 15-20 gallon compressor (especially one with a higher pressure) will do you just fine. We built my dad's 6 with a 12 gallon 115psi compressor; I have a slightly larger 200psi one. It runs a lot when I use the air saw or the air drill, but with the HVLP spray gun or the rivet gun it lasts a good long time. Just get a good set of earmuffs, and limit your compressor use to daytime hours if you have close neighbors. Put the money saved towards your engine.
Not all of us have the money to buy the biggest and best of everything, or the room to store it all.
__________________
RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
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04-10-2014, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,953
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Experience
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmartingt
I think you're pretty much set on reading material for now. Read the books, browse around on VAF, and check out some builders' logs.
What might be better than more reading material right now would be getting a little experience. You could attend an EAA class; I believe they have some on generic sheetmetal construction as well as an RV-specific class. Or (and?), try finding other builders in your area. Visit their projects, ask them questions, see if they need a hand riveting. You'll pick up more from spending a day or two in the shop than you will from reading more books. Plus, building that network and putting in that time now will pay off later, when you need a riveting partner or a special tool or just something to go look at when you're stumped. Just be willing to extend that same courtesy later on, when newer builders are looking for help.
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+1
I would take a class or better find a mentor. What you learn in one day will drive your tool choices. Buy a tool box kit and build it with your mentor.
I just replaced helped a noob friend replace the hinge on my POS tool box. He learned how to drill out rivets, cut and fit a hinge then back rivet and seemed happy to take the tool box home with him to show off his work to his spouse.
Everyone is different. I know builders who won't touch a pneumatic squeezer. I can't imagine building without one. I hate rechargeable drills and love my Sioux pneumatic tools. I use a small 5 gal. 220v compressor and paint with a HVLP.
What works for one may not work for another. Learn first then make your choices.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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