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  #1  
Old 04-08-2014, 11:12 AM
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MrNomad MrNomad is offline
 
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Question Nippondenso alternator issues

I replaced my Nippondenso alternator (Van's part # 14684) which had 420 hours with a rebuilt/loaner ALT that has zero hours. The old alt would spike to 16.1 volts causing the EMS to alarm. The replacement alt spiked one time in the last 1.5 hours, alarmed briefly, then stayed within the settings set up in the EMS.

Nevertheless, it constantly vacillates between -2 amp and +3 amps even though the load (radios and lights) remains constant.

When the original ALT was new, I never recall an over voltage circumstance. What's your experience with these alternators? Are you experiencing vacillations in voltage and amperage w/o changing the electrical load?

Barry
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  #2  
Old 04-08-2014, 12:57 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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I am pretty sure that is the alternator with no internal voltage regulator (mine is 14184) If your voltage is fluctuating, the first place I would look is the voltage regulator. Do you have an external voltage regulator?
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  #3  
Old 04-08-2014, 01:37 PM
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Hi Barry,

The 14684 is internally regulated, so no use going off on a wild goose chase looking for a part that isn't there.

I would discount mior amp fluctuations - I don't know what instrumentation you're using, or what it is indicating (amps out of alternator, amps into the bus, amps in to the battery, etc) - but I have never seen one in an airplane that I would trust to read better than =/- 5 amps or so.

Voltage fluctuations tell you more however - one spike here or there when adding or taking off a load is not terribly unusual, but if it is varying a couple of volts on a regular basis, i'd say you have a regulator problem.

Two EMPIRICAL observations after usng these alternators for years on three different airplanes in our fleet and watching countless threads on VAF:

1) Turning the alternator on or off with the engine running is a good way to destroy the regulator (over time)
2) Getting good cooling air to the regulator on the back of the alternator never hurts.

One thing you can always do with an automotive alternator is take it by your favorite auto parts store and have them test it for you - they won't ask any questions if you tell them it is off your beloved Suzuki Samurai....
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  #4  
Old 04-08-2014, 01:47 PM
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Smile Nippondenso - internally regulated

Thanks Paul.

Yes, u r correct, it is internally regulated. I am using a Dynon D180 to monitor.

The ALT switch is turned on before the engine is started. Yes, I have a blast tube directing cool air to the ALT.

The local parts stores were useless in their diagnosis. Auto Zone couldn't find an adapter to test it and the second shop claimed the original ALT was good even tho it blew the breaker so "free" testing seems to be worth what u pay for it.

I think it's time for a new reg from a more reputable source. Thx.
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  #5  
Old 04-08-2014, 01:51 PM
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I had similiar issues with that alternator. I was using a B & C regulator because if the alternator stopped outputting, the regulator would activate a warning light. The Van's alternator kept tripping the field circuit breaker. After spending hours trying to diagnose the problem, and talking with B & C technical support, the conclusion was that inexpensive alternators output "dirty" (i.e. "spiky" my words) voltage. I then broke down and purchased a B&C alternator, it has worked flawlessly every since.
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  #6  
Old 04-08-2014, 02:03 PM
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My ND quit around 220 hours (more or less on schedule per the experiences here). What I recall is that Vans is now selling the Plane Power alternator - which is what I went with and have, so far, had very good experience. I recall having to change the bracket but that it was a pretty easy job.

Dan
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  #7  
Old 04-08-2014, 02:23 PM
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Barry,

You need a more specific alternator shop than AutoZone for testing and rebuilding -



1401 E. 20th St., Tucson, AZ 85719
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  #8  
Old 04-08-2014, 03:54 PM
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Today mine went off line while on a test flight. When new it was putting out 14.1 volts and in about 20 hours of phase one, its dropped to 13.7 volts. When it went off line today, voltage steadily dropped and at 11.6 volts, I cycled the alternator switch on and off and it came back on line putting out 13.7 volts again. I do have a blast tube on the diodes also.
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  #9  
Old 04-08-2014, 04:17 PM
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Default That was the local firm who pronounced the old ALT OK

Gil:

That was the local firm who pronounced the old ALT good so I stand by my comments that "free tests" should be viewed with concern. Chet & I are thinking of creating a test stand so we can control the entire environment. Unlike auto applications, the flywheel versus ALT pulley is much larger on a Lycoming. My guess is the ALT is spinning at a much faster rate than Suzuki ever imagined. Perhaps that's a factor too.

Barry


Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Barry,

You need a more specific alternator shop than AutoZone for testing and rebuilding -



1401 E. 20th St., Tucson, AZ 85719
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2014, 05:10 PM
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db1yg db1yg is offline
 
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Hey Barry,

For what it is worth, my 1987 Suzuki Samari alternator (55 amp) has been creeping up for the last three flights. Over its life since 2006 it has been steady at 14.1 to 14.3 volts. Last week it was showing a steady 14.5 then this week 14.9. I suspect the internal regulator is loosing it. Good thing is that it was purchased at NAPA with a life time warranty for my "off road" vehicle. I plan on taking it off tomorrow and having it tested.

Cheers,

db
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