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  #11  
Old 04-01-2014, 07:46 PM
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TCONROY TCONROY is offline
 
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Location: Wilsonville, OR
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We used SkyBolt 1/4 turn fasteners. I was a little skeptical at first but quickly realized it was the way to go. installation is simple, it looks great, and the cowls come of very easily. In fact, we purchased the upper/lower firewall kit last summer and after installing them and seeing just how easy they were to install, we ordered the cowl split line kit last week.Worth every penny!
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2014, 07:54 PM
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flightlogic flightlogic is offline
 
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Location: Prescott, AZ
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I see all the varieties of solutions here. I am curious about the post that the hinge pins are easy. My 9A came with hinges all around... but #8 screws that release the hinge along the top of the cowling. I have pushed and pulled on those hinge pins and they don't budge. I just zip the screws out with a power driver.
The rest, as mentioned slide easily and go back OK. One thing I notice is the bottom, horizontal pins in the area of the exhaust tend to drift towards center. I don't see a handy place to safety them. Anybody got a clever IDEA?
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  #13  
Old 04-02-2014, 12:35 PM
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704CH 704CH is offline
 
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With Hinges there probably is a care/quality of construction that needs to be maintained to ensure they slip in and out easily. I understand some bind if the hinge halves aren't lined up correctly when drilling and installing etc. I clean my hinge pins with Acetone and then apply Boe Lube to them at each oil change. Ensures they always slip out without issue. Try acetone then Boe Lube on the pins.
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  #14  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:37 PM
hudgin hudgin is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Cedar Hill, Tx.
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Go look at a Piper Aztec or a Twin Comanche. Both use pins in the nose cowl. Check out the way the pin is folded back and into a hook. Use some left over hinge to make a hook to catch the pin. As for ease of remove and install I just wipe the pins with the rag that I used to check the oil. Fresh clean lube every time is the key.
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  #15  
Old 04-02-2014, 10:20 PM
kjlpdx kjlpdx is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: lake oswego, OR
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after 15 yrs I decided to replace the nutplates[which didn't have much resistance left in them] along the firewall and nose with camlocs. turns out I could only use the original style because of the small amount of flange to fasten to. camlocs reach is sized by the 1 /32". I discovered that my fiberglass cowl [the old, original style] varied quite a bit in thickness. the seat of these camlocs are not adjustable, but the plunger 1/4 turn screw part comes in various lengths. after much messing around [I was replacing 24 nutplates] I also discovered that the one time only locking washer adds to the thickness, so your trial fits may be off. fortunate for me, Columbia Aeromotive is up the street from TTD. I made many trips. I forgot to add that the hole distance for camlocs is about a 1/2 rivet width narrower than a std nutplate. I machined an adapter drill guide to locate the camloc seat exactly where the nutplate had been so that the holes in the fiberglass cowl still aligned. so, long story long, use the adjustable ones if possible. [I didn't have the choice, no room]. if you do, first buy a set of #6 thru 10 and use these to figure the correct fastener length for each hole, then order the rest. with the flush fit camlocs, setting them in a 1/4" thin washer will perfectly replace the tinnerman washer used with the #8 screws. total cost for 24, maybe $180?
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  #16  
Old 04-03-2014, 12:16 PM
dekky111 dekky111 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Default Hinges

I used hinges for the top and sides of the cowl. Along the bottom I have 3 #8 screws and nutplates on each side for a total of #6. Works great. Just make sure you take care getting the hinges lined up perfectly prior to setting them.
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