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  #231  
Old 03-10-2014, 11:39 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
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It's hard to go from flying status back to project status, but I've got some time off and the Wx is going to cooperate. I leveled the airplane and chalked a centerline, I made parallel lines at 22 & 32 inches. I used a level to project these lines on the leg fairings and the piece of plywood at the back of the plane.



I used a line level for the string and tuning the string through a short piece of tubing worked great.


All in all it took me half a day to align the gear fairings.
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  #232  
Old 03-10-2014, 11:54 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I drew a grid on the wheelpant, I have yet to use it...

I wanted to try some pour foam, I made a **** so to speak and poured away.

Ended up with this.

It would have worked great (I think) except I covered everything with clear packing tape prior to pouring the foam. It sanded really easy but when it got down to 1/4 inch thick it just chucked off because of the slick tape.
I went with plan B, modeling clay for Hobby Lobby which was way cheaper than the pour foam (2 packs was just enough).

It took me a while but I finally figured out what I was doing. I formed the lower fairings mostly with a couple on pice of 3/4 PVC. I tried to extend the leg fairings into the wheelpant and than radius it onto the wheelpant. I also tried to keep a blunt forward face with an extended trailing edge in parallel with the leg fairing trailing edge. It was in the 40's and I used my heat gun to help mold the clay.

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  #233  
Old 03-11-2014, 12:18 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I made a pattern for the trailing edge of the upper intersection fairing.


I made 2 metal trailing edges out if .032.

I taped the trailing edges in place and jammed some clay around them.


Not a quick process, I sent roughly 7 hours on the hanger floor forming these transition fairings.

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  #234  
Old 03-11-2014, 12:20 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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My daughters joined me after school, I'm told I need to bring their bikes and buy more taxi-way chalk!



I finally got all 4 glassed, the first one is actually much prettier in person...




I was able to find all the radius's I needed from the beer bottle to 1/4 pitot static tubing. It helped to cover the larger "tools" with packing tape and wet the clay so it didn't stick.
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  #235  
Old 03-17-2014, 12:18 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I flew with the lower fairings temporarily screwed on and the uppers glassed/taped on. I guess it's not exactly 200 mph tape.


Pic of the lower transition fairings, I split them just aft of the gear leg. Playing around with the joint on the underneath side instead of the trailing edge, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them like this or not.



Test flight was a little disappointing, I needed a Lot more right rudder to keep the ball centered. It also felt like the airplane was pushing itself left and right in front of the CG depending on power setting. I borrowed a pair of upper intersection fairings from a friend's RV6 to double check the leg fairing alignment. My right leg fairing was set with the trailing edge about 1/4-3/8 inch high towards the right side. I readjusted the right leg fairing and test flew without the intersection fairings. 2nd time was a charm, flew great with just a smidge of right rudder (same rudder input as no fairings). No to re-fit my right intersection fairings to the repositioned gear leg. Good thing the Wx is starting to cooperate.
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  #236  
Old 03-18-2014, 11:25 AM
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Michael White Michael White is offline
 
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Location: Cartersville, Georgia KVPC
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Andy,
Why not separate the lower fairings at the pant joint and bond the halves to the pants once you get everything positioned correctly? 'Bout the only time you'll want to take the lowers off, the pants will need to come off anyway, so why not make it easy on yourself?

Once you get everything set up and bonded in place, you can glass a lip on the rear half of the lowers to go under the front half and help lock them in place.
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  #237  
Old 03-18-2014, 12:24 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default Leg fairing alignment

Always seemed to me there was more to this process than just alignment with the fuselage. These fairings are largely in the spiraling slipstream, the vectors of which will vary with rpm, forward speed, AoA and prop pitch. The inboard portions will feel the slipstream while the outboard portions hardly at all.

Seems to me the ideal fairing actually needs a twist to accommodate that. And that the setting that best feathers to the passing air is not determinable with only a level and string.

Has anyone made the fairing movable in flight via Bowden cable and tufted/ captured video at various incidence settings? If even one RV of each model was properly optimized, the rest of the VAF could copy their incidence data and hit their rigging pretty much dead-on.

Hoping someone else will volunteer, of course

-Stormy
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  #238  
Old 03-18-2014, 02:05 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Micheal, I've seen both ways but after reading reviews on VAF that bonding to the pant and splitting seemed less durable than 1 piece with a slit screwed to the wheelpant. I'm sure both ways work if done correctly, as you can tell from my glasswork I'm still in the "rough" stage!
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  #239  
Old 03-23-2014, 06:26 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I needed to redo my intersection fairings for the right side since the right gear leg fairing was mis-aligned. I cut the fairings close to the gear leg and fuse/wheelpant transition and taped them in place. I used little strips of fiberglass to hold the new shape.




I pulled them off today, ran a bead of flox followed be a layer of glass from the inside of the cut.



Psyching myself up for the sand-fill-repeat...
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  #240  
Old 03-30-2014, 08:51 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Finally warm enough to bring the girls out to the hangar with me to work on the intersection fairings.



I have the uppers layered in filler and roughly cut to the final shape.




The lower fairings are looking good, but the underneath split is going to be more trouble than its worth. I'm thinking about re-glassing the current cut and split it at the trailing edge.
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