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I have 3 cracks in my RV-8. (Lower R, Upper R & L)
Kit 875 delivered and built in 1998.
1210 hours on airframe.
0-360 with Hartzell CS.
Extensive Acro, formation, off paved surface ops.
Notches were present.
Findings are:
Initial inspection found nothing. Second set of eyes noted a small crack on my lower right corner (picture somehow got flipped upside down). Stripped paint (Imron is tough), used die-penetrant and verified a crack emanating from notch much like the SB shows. Also noticed that I had'nt done a great job smoothing the notch. You can see the beginnings of a crack next to the micro-nick on the left side of the notch. It's obvious that this was in the group of first parts that I made. Not the workmanship level I try to achieve now that I know more.
Ordered repair kit and waited two weeks. Finished the rest of my conditional inspection. This was not a fun finding but couldn't have come at a better time.
Received kit and disassembled empenage. Found 3 of the 4 #3 bolts that attach rear horiz spar to vertical posts were not torqued properly.

Installed over 10 years ago, torqued to spec and torque seal applied. Every annual I checked to see the torque seal was not indicating movement of nut and bolt. Torque seal was intact. Apparently over 10 years of use since painting and installing parts, the rather thick coats of paint on all parts had shrunk and reduced the torque without any external evidence. I hadn't used the proper method of securing torqued parts.

All mating surfaces should be free of paint to avoid this issue.
Be advised.
After removal of the ribs I found two more cracks on the upper right and left that had been covered by the rib flange. A little scary to think that I had those cracks and were it not for the SB I would have never seen them. For that matter I don't believe that I would have seen the original crack during my conditional inspections due to its small size and being covered with paint. That's why the SB has you remove paint before inspecting.
Drilling out the reinforcing bars proved to be a two-man operation. I had no problem popping off the heads and driving out the rivet shank with a punch. After filing the required notches (I already had notches from original build. Don't remember putting them in but they were there. Non pre-punched kit) I was able to remove two of the cracks and the third had propagated to the rib flange attach hole.
I installed all the parts but used a slightly different method to align the parts. I was able to cleco the bars to the VERTICAL stab forward spar attach points and then align the reinforcing plates. This made it easy to ensure alignment of the bend angles and proper clearance for all the parts to fit rather than the measure method that the SB described. I was able to make sharpie pen marks on the doubler plates through the existing holes in the bars.
I then clecoed the doublers to the HORIZONTAL spar web, re-aligned the doubler plates using the sharpie marks and side-grip clecoed them in place. Triple re-check everything aligned and commenced to drilling from center to outboard tip, clecoing every hole to keep it tight. Before removing to debur I slipped the main rib into place with the new attach angle side-grip clecoed in place through the lightning hole. Match drilled the 8 attach holes (4 in rib, 4 in spar web) into the attach angle all while clamped in place rather than the SB method of removing to drill. All parts drilled in place before removing or riveting anything.
To date I have hand squeezed the rivets in the center section. Awaiting my next day off to tackle the ones inside the HS. Looks like my offset rivet set and a nice tungsten bar will work fairly easily.
Sure am glad I did this.

As always, I found more than I was looking for.