Pre-starting..

[ccsmith51]

Originally Posted by N941WR

If he has a key switch, he will have to ground the plugs. If he used mag switches and a starter button, then he can just leave the mags off.

I do have a key switch. What is the easiest and safest way to ground the bottom plugs that I remove?

Or, could I leave the key off and jump the starter and not worry about grounding (assuming I don't have a hot mag, which last time I checked I didn't...)

[ao.frog]

Charge the battery....

This schould ofcourse be done beetween pt 3 and 4.

[ccsmith51]

Originally Posted by ao.frog

Charge the battery....

This schould ofcourse be done beetween pt 3 and 4.

Thanks for the suggestion. The battery (Odyssey) has been on a trickle charger the whole time I have been gone, so I expect (hope) that it will be charged and in good shape when I get back..

[Bob Martin]

I agree with the above comments completely, but there is more you can do. The first minute of start up is where parts are dry from sitting and most of the wear occurs. I agree that spinning the engine to get the oil moving is a wonderful idea, but.
You can completely fill your crankcase with oil, then with sparkplugs out, rotate the prop for many turns. This has the cam and cylinder walls completed covered in oil while the parts are rubbing together. Then drain the oil. Refill with proper amount and go fly. I have never seen this printed anywhere but I have done it and felt good about it. YMMV.

[Dr107flyer]

Searching for advice on starting after a prolonged period of inactivity and came across this. Has anyone tried filling the crankcase completely with oil as mentioned below ?

Originally Posted by Bob Martin

I agree with the above comments completely, but there is more you can do. The first minute of start up is where parts are dry from sitting and most of the wear occurs. I agree that spinning the engine to get the oil moving is a wonderful idea, but.
You can completely fill your crankcase with oil, then with sparkplugs out, rotate the prop for many turns. This has the cam and cylinder walls completed covered in oil while the parts are rubbing together. Then drain the oil. Refill with proper amount and go fly. I have never seen this printed anywhere but I have done it and felt good about it. YMMV.

[edsong]

My Pitts(IO-360) sits for 5 to 6 months in the winter. When it gets warm enough to fly March-April I start it up and fly it home. I don't think these engines are that fragile that you can't just start it and fly.

EDDY

[Toobuilder]

Considering the cam takes the biggest beating at startup and is also completely dependant on "splash" lubrication, you want 1000+ RPM ASAP. Grinding on the starter may float the bearings, but your cam is dying with every dry turn.

[Dr107flyer]

Yes I know it's splash lubricated but I was wondering about the idea of filling the case with oil to lubricate the cam before attempting a start ?

[N54SG]

Originally Posted by edsong

My Pitts(IO-360) sits for 5 to 6 months in the winter. When it gets warm enough to fly March-April I start it up and fly it home. I don't think these engines are that fragile that you can't just start it and fly.

EDDY

I'm with you on this. If these engines were as fragile as everyone thinks they are, they would never work for the average Cessna or Piper owner.. Just be smart about it, and start the **** thing, in my opinion. I think oil on the cam is the one thing to think about, and all the cranking in the world won't help that. I assume an advantage of roller lifters, like I have, is less wear when 'dry'.

[DanH]

Originally Posted by Dr107flyer

Yes I know it's splash lubricated but I was wondering about the idea of filling the case with oil to lubricate the cam before attempting a start ?

You can't, at least not quickly.