SB 14-01-31; RV-6, 7, 8

[bret]

Originally Posted by ILikePike

Pictures Bret?

well, kinda getto, but it worked.

[bret]

So if you did the HS like me, the manifactured heads are facing rear, and HS 405 is installed so that it is dificult to drill, I had to bend the 12inch 40 drill while drilling to get a straight shot in the MH of the rivet. These are the tools I used. Kinda back yardish but it worked.

[lostpilot28]

Quick question before my stats. Before I went out and complied with the SB, I thought it was only for the "top" left & right of the forward spar. I didn't even think about the lower left & right sides. I ended up checking all 4 corners, anyway, because I'm assuming that's what the SB calls for.

1. Are you folks checking all 4 corners?
2. Are you all removing paint before checking? Hope that's not a bad question, but the picture on the SB makes it look like you should be able to easily see a crack, but the text tells you to remove the paint before checking.

2009 RV-7A
220 hrs T.T.
ECI 0-360-A1A
Catto 3 blade
very little acro
almost always operated on paved runways
Does have notches
No cracks

[Kyle Boatright]

2001 RV-6
900 hrs
Wood Prop, O-320
Mild Acro - loops, rolls, rarely >4 G's.
Some (few) grass op's.
No notches.

No cracks.

[cdmiller]

RV-8 completed in 2006
IO-360 M1 with 9.2 to one and LS ignition
WW200 RV prop
1350 hours TT
Lots of acro; all <4 G's
Often push back on HS
No grass
No notches
No cracks; either SB

[Neal@F14]

Originally Posted by lostpilot28

1. Are you folks checking all 4 corners?
2. Are you all removing paint before checking? Hope that's not a bad question, but the picture on the SB makes it look like you should be able to easily see a crack, but the text tells you to remove the paint before checking.

I checked all 4 corners...

Two of my corners were blatantly obvious that there's no sign of even the remotest possibility of a crack, but two corners (upper starboard and lower port) had enough paint on them that I couldn't be absolutely certain... so I spent the time with a box of q-tips and various solvents to remove the paint and in the end there were no cracks to be found. I discovered that fully-cured, ten-year-old polyurethane paint and epoxy primer is awfully tough to remove with typical hardware store solvents... a mixture of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and MEK worked better than any other solvent alone, and it still took a long time and a lot of rubbing with q-tips. I wasn't about to use any harsh chemical paint stripper for fear of inducing corrosion.

[jrm7997]

I was just thinking about this very topic. What should you use to remove the corrosion resistant materials or paint to be able to do this inspection?

I've heard of using MEk but also biodegradable paint removers or aircraft type paint removers.

Not trying to hijack this thread but maybe make it part of it???????

Or is there another thread asking this question?

Thanks

[AHaury]

RV-6A
Built 2/21/2005
Third owner
512 hrs TT
Lycoming 0-320-01A
Hartzell HC-C2YL-1BF prop
No known acro
Typically hard surface use.
No notches
No cracks on either S.B.

[Rotorheadrob]

RV-8A
O-360 A1A
Hartzel CS
Finished 1999
+1100 hrs
Multiple Owners
Yes-Acro
Yes-grass
Yes-dirt
Yes-pavement
Yes-VFR
Yes-IFR
Yes-Formation Flying
Yes-long X-C trips
Yes-Hot Wx ops
Yes-Cold Wx ops

No Cracks. 😎👍🍺

[Danger Will Robinson]

RV-6
1230 Hrs TT
Built 1993
3rd owner for past 200 hrs
Slider
O-360 A1A
Hartzell C/S
Light acro
No towbar [that's going to change]
occasional rough turf runways
Notches
No Cracks