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POSTING RULES

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02-05-2014, 09:39 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowflake
Possible new info:
Look at the rib at the right of the photo though, specifically the bend in the flange that joins it to the back of the front spar. Right beside that top rivet, is a crack that extends down at least the width of the rivet head. It's very faint to see, but the rivet head is just above the center of the photo, the crack just to the right of it.

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Rob, fascinating photo. And very important. Good on you. You are to be commended for observing this and posting an image.
People who have been inspecting their aircraft and reporting no cracks might like to take a second look if all they were inspecting in the first instance was the "notched" area (ie. they were too focused).
As per my post #400, this shows the reason why people with cracks need to be posting a photograph. This type of visual information could very easily result in Vans having a second think about this issue.
It certainly looks like a crack in the photo. Are you certain that it is.
__________________
You’re only as good as your last landing 
Bob Barrow
RV7A
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02-05-2014, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 877
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Hair Style?
Quote:
Originally Posted by walkman
1999 rv-6
830 ttaf
O360 counterwghted crank
Hartzell c/s prop
Regular mild Afro
Occasional grass
Notches
GRT efis
No cracks either sb
Whew
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I'm still trying to figure what hair style has to do with cracks!
Skylor
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02-05-2014, 11:18 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Avgas
It certainly looks like a crack in the photo. Are you certain that it is.
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I have not gone back with tools and confirmed with my hands on it. But I have three photos all from slightly different angles (I was trying to get the SB location in focus) that *together* lead me to believe it's a crack. That's just the best photo with the "crack" in sharpest focus.
I won't be able to confirm 100% until the weekend when I get to the airport again.
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Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
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02-06-2014, 04:58 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Pembrokeshire, UK
Posts: 224
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RV-8
May 2012
130 hrs
no notch (not in plans)
Approx 75% Hard 25% Grass
Mild aeros and Formation
Catto 3 Blade composite FP
ASP IO-360 Dual P-Mags
No cracks
__________________
Bob Ellis
www.rv-8.co.uk
G-JBTR Having a ball flying this wonderful machine
Donation July 2016
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02-06-2014, 06:12 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Niceville, FL
Posts: 81
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New Horz Stab...Install?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002
Some have said they figure building a new stab would be easier.
I think it would be probably double the work time (assuming an already removed one getting the mod installed). One thing to consider before doing this... The bolt connections that attach the stab to the fuselage are just as important as any of the rivets that need to be removed are. Do you know for certain that when you drilled those holes, they were drilled exactly perpendicular to the parts involved. Are you confident, that you can accurately match drill, from below (in a very limited work space), to have a good close clearance fit between the fuselage and the new stabilizer?
I am not saying it can't be done. I have done it, and others have also.
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If I find cracks...I'd prefer to build another horizontal stab...my workmanship was at its lowest on the tail. So...has anyone installed a new stab on an aircraft? The above quote about match drilling it to the fuselage has me questioning whether I should go this route. Any experience is greatly appreciated. PM is fine as I don't want to derail this thread. If I go this route...or get any good info...I'll start another thread.
Thanks!
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John Collier
RV8
N774BC
Niceville, FL
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02-06-2014, 07:55 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Spartanburg, S.C.
Posts: 4
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450 hours
RV6
180
CS
No cracking 
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02-06-2014, 08:29 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
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Quote:
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Note the inspection instruction: 'Clean the area and remove any paint, overspray or primer that could hide a crack. Cracks may be very small and hard to detect.'
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Good question for the group: This is a small area in an awkward location tucked into a nest of separate parts. All factors considered, what is the best way to strip the paint for a really close inspection?
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Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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02-06-2014, 08:40 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
Good question for the group: This is a small area in an awkward location tucked into a nest of separate parts. All factors considered, what is the best way to strip the paint for a really close inspection?
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Using some type of chemical stripper would be required as mechanical stripping will tend to fill and hide a crack if present.
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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02-06-2014, 08:57 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 167
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7A
360 hrs
no notch
All paved runways
No aerobatics so far
WW200 prop
IO-360 Dual P-Mags
No cracks.
__________________
Roger, 7A, N374RS, Tucson
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02-06-2014, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
Good question for the group: This is a small area in an awkward location tucked into a nest of separate parts. All factors considered, what is the best way to strip the paint for a really close inspection?
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So what strips Jet Glo? And how do you get the residue out of the nooks and crannies? Would not getting it out lead to corrosion issues?
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