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  #1  
Old 01-31-2014, 01:26 PM
9erDriver 9erDriver is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Brookings, SD
Posts: 101
Default Cut & Buff believer

I was singin' the orange-peel blues after spraying the bottom of my RV8A fuselage with Deltron DCC Concept topcoat (over DP epoxy primer). So with nothing to lose I tried Dan Horton's Cut & Buff methodology using the 3M products he recommended: trizak 1500 wet color sand with DA sander followed by 2 stage buffing with electric buffer using the 3M #1 and #2 rubbing and machine polish compounds.

I am astonished - this stuff really works. My amateur paint job turned into something very acceptable. I highly recommend this for DIY painters wanting to achieve a near-professional finish.

Thanks, Dan, for posting this advice.


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  #2  
Old 01-31-2014, 02:18 PM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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I've used DanH's technique several times, and not always on an airplane ...


.. it really works. I love that he shared the process so thoroughly and with such clear and easy to follow steps.

FYI: here is the DanH thread.
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2014, 07:40 PM
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flyingriki flyingriki is offline
 
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Great looking woodwork!
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  #4  
Old 02-01-2014, 04:54 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Thanks. The technique DanH describes in his thread works in lots of cases. I couldn't quickly find any of my metal work.

I did find my video of a propeller I refinished using DanH's tutorials ...

http://vimeo.com/m/50006571

... and description of the process ...

http://thesalmonfarm.org/blog/p/3395

One of the tips (or tricks) that make a difference is the "sanding blocks". I had some old 2" high density closed cell minicell foam (we use to use rasps and dragon skin to contour it for kayak seats). Anyway, the foam will give a little but only with significant pressure.

I glued my wet sandpaper to these foam blocks - 400, 800, 1200, 1500 grit. Using a misting water bottle, these blocks work great and I see high spots / low spots just as DanH depict in his thread.

I keep an eye out for that foam but I've not stumbled across it since my whitewater boating days. (Probably because I don't know the correct name of the material.)

Last edited by humptybump : 02-01-2014 at 05:07 AM.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2014, 07:56 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Glen, that is beautiful woodwork.

With talents like that you need to build an Albatross D.V. This one was built for Frank Ryder (RIP) and now lives in Belgium.

http://www.stampe.be/UK/The_Collection_Albatros.html

Think how much fun you could have, orbiting in the sun, waiting for the Russian...
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  #6  
Old 02-02-2014, 11:55 PM
SvingenB SvingenB is offline
 
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I have been experimenting with some similar things myself, but have not really made it to the finish line regarding the end result. I am probably using the wrong techniques/products/procedures. Where can I find Dan's recipe ?

Thanks
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2014, 06:46 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Hi Bjørnar,

I have it above but here it is again (it's that good a thread it deserved repeated links) DanH tutorial on cut and buffing paint.

Dan, I'm working on a project that is about 2-1/2 decades younger and a bit larger

Last edited by humptybump : 02-03-2014 at 06:53 AM.
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2014, 08:05 AM
broken1234 broken1234 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dyer, TN
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Compared to other brands, I have had some trouble getting the dried 3m products out of the rivet heads after buffing is complete. Did you guys have any problem here?

Brad
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2014, 08:27 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Brad, I use water and had no big issues. That said, I am careful and gentle around the rivets.
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  #10  
Old 02-03-2014, 01:13 PM
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Jerry Fischer Jerry Fischer is offline
 
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Location: Winder Ga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humptybump View Post
I've used DanH's technique several times, and not always on an airplane ...


.. it really works. I love that he shared the process so thoroughly and with such clear and easy to follow steps.

FYI: here is the DanH thread.
Very nice looking Cherry wood Glen (:-))
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