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01-28-2014, 05:11 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 74
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Newbie question
So I'm just getting started and I'm in the process of deburring the outside and inside edges of the vertical stabilizer parts. My question is about VS 1008 the rear spar doubler. I spent a lot of time deburring this part but the edges are still not quite as smooth as the other parts. It's smooth but still a little bumpy. Can I move on? Thanks!!!!
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01-28-2014, 07:01 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Harrisburg, Pa
Posts: 759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyzepilot
So I'm just getting started and I'm in the process of deburring the outside and inside edges of the vertical stabilizer parts. My question is about VS 1008 the rear spar doubler. I spent a lot of time deburring this part but the edges are still not quite as smooth as the other parts. It's smooth but still a little bumpy. Can I move on? Thanks!!!!
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If the bumps you're referring to are the tooling marks from being stamped, I would continue to debur. A scotchbrite wheel should make quick work of the outside of the doubler.
Looks like we're both beginning at the same time. I received my empennage last week and plan on beginning tomorrow! Will you be doing an online log?
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01-28-2014, 07:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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Actually a belt sander works good on those type edges.
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Actual repeat offender.
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01-28-2014, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 1,351
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Get yourself a flat Vixen file - it will knock those tooling marks down very quickly.
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CharlieWaffles - But you can call me " Mark"
RV-10
N928MT
Flying - AKA Still Tinkering
Build Project Site
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01-29-2014, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,967
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Files
They are not only for "old school" builders. You WILL need and use them on your project. Buy a set that includes some little half-rounds (like a jewelers file), which are good for rounded and strange-shaped cut outs.
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01-29-2014, 11:02 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed
Actually a belt sander works good on those type edges.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles
Get yourself a flat Vixen file - it will knock those tooling marks down very quickly.
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Yes, and yes.
Bench mounted belt/disc sander is great tool, but part size is limited. Vixen file for big stuff, belt sander for smaller. Be careful, the belt sander takes off material fast-------and you should still go over the area with the Scotch brite wheel to take out the sander or file marks.

__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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01-29-2014, 01:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 74
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Thanks for all of the great advice!!! My belt sander made quick work of the outside edges. The inside was a little more difficult. I used a vixen file then a small scotchbrite wheel.
As of now I'm not using a online log, however that may change. I'm trying out the aircraft builder app and it seems to be working ok. We'll see as I get further along in the process.
Once again thanks for all of the quick responses as I will certainly pass it forward as I gain experience.
Dave.
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01-29-2014, 01:25 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,261
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There are many ways that you can knock these off as you can see from the various responses. I personally use a piece of sand paper wrapped around a small block of wood. I sand with the block square to the edge to sand the edge surface and I also hold the block at an angle to get rid of the burrs. I also have a die grinder with a small scotchbrite wheel ( I think its 2" or 3"). That makes quick work of prepping the edges in a quick pass. The wheel gets little grooves from the edge and that ends up working great. If you decide to go with this approach it is useful going forward on all of the edges that you can reach with the wheel. You will still need to sand in the corners and etc. I found the small wheels on EBAY and got them for a couple bucks each.
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Ray Tonks
2020 Donation Paid
Titan IOX-370, Dual PMAGs, 9.6:1 Pistons, FM-150
RV-7 Fuselage in progress
* Cabin Interior - In progress
RV-7 SB Wings
* Both Wings fully skinned
* Fuel Tanks Complete - No leaks finally
* Ailerons Complete
* Flaps Complete
RV-7 Empennage - Complete (a little fiberglass work left)
Vans Training Kit # 2 - Complete
RV-7 Preview Plans
Vans Training Kit #1 - Complete
EAA Sheet Metal Class - Complete
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01-29-2014, 03:43 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
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ScotchBrite Wheel Grooves
Yes, the grooves that form in the scotchbrite wheels are nice at times. Be careful, however. Those grooves will get deeper quickly and the are V shaped. Eventually, if you run the piece of aluminum in a deep groove, it will debur it but it will also sharpen the aluminum to a very sharp edge...which kind of defeats the purpose of deburring...not to mention if you slide your fingers over the edge to check the smoothness and they come back bloody... 
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Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88
RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
EFII System 32 - Done
297 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful
Wiring...
Dues+ Paid 2019,...Thanks DR+
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