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  #11  
Old 12-09-2013, 01:50 PM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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Another stupid question. Since they don't want you priming the area you scuff up on the skins I am assuming they do not want you to prime the trailing edge either. Do I need to leave the trailing edge as is?

Thank you
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2013, 01:55 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,408
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Yes, just scuffed and cleaned.
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  #13  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:42 PM
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MS19087 MS19087 is offline
 
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Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 689
Talking You guys are having too much fun . . .

I may have to order myself one of those tail kits
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2014, 01:51 PM
mcattell mcattell is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Forest Grove, OR
Posts: 239
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I also was not please with the use of the double sided tape for the rudder. I'll be going back to Pro-Seal as well for other trailing edges. It's a much tighter fit to Pro-Seal first with cleco in every hole and then rivet after it's cured. I just match drilled a piece of tube steel to keep perfect straight alignment when clecoing.
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  #15  
Old 01-23-2014, 02:41 PM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 705
Default Proseal

I used 3m 5200 quick cure purchased at Home Depot.
It cures in less than 24 hrs and has a much stronger, flexible
Bond than proseal although as messy to work with. Use multiple
Pairs of gloves. Spread it on thin with a plastic serrated knife.
Cleco every hole to a straight bench or 3/4 right angle stock.
The tube stock also sounds like a good idea.

In the marine business 5200 has a nick name of 52 million.
The stuff is amazingly strong.
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2014, 06:36 PM
alcladrv alcladrv is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southeast
Posts: 569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agirard7a View Post
I used 3m 5200 quick cure purchased at Home Depot.
It cures in less than 24 hrs and has a much stronger, flexible
Bond than proseal although as messy to work with. Use multiple
Pairs of gloves. Spread it on thin with a plastic serrated knife.
Cleco every hole to a straight bench or 3/4 right angle stock.
The tube stock also sounds like a good idea.

In the marine business 5200 has a nick name of 52 million.
The stuff is amazingly strong.
Could you verify that is has no silicone in it and is paintable with Acry-Glo or some other aircraft paint?
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2014, 07:46 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcladrv View Post
Could you verify that is has no silicone in it and is paintable with Acry-Glo or some other aircraft paint?
Yes, it is paintable. I used proseal.
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2014, 06:46 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 705
Default 3m 5200

3m 5200 is a polyurethane base permanent,
Flexible, paintable adhesive. I would not recommend
this product if you think you will ever need to remove
Or seperate what is being bonded.

I have seen cases with wood bonded to fiberglass, completely
distroyed the fiberglass when it was separated, not to mention
the wood. It bonds extremely well to metal. If you scuff and clean
The surface with alcohol, naphtha, lacquer thinner, or acetone. Same as you
would prep for proseal.

I used it on my flap trailing edges, clecoed to a straight work bench, combined with back riveting
On a long steel plate that I bought from harbour freight.
The result was great. Dead nut straight and strong.

This is an alternative to using proseal. It's one part,
cures faster, comes in a small tube for 6 bucks and in my opinion
A better product for the application. Make sure to get the quick cure!

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Last edited by agirard7a : 01-24-2014 at 07:53 AM.
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  #19  
Old 02-24-2014, 09:57 AM
Rocky005 Rocky005 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 35
Default Twist in Rudder - one side only??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantzon View Post
You do not need a shim for the clecos.
Are you sure? We have finished our RV-14 rudder but we completed it with one side down (as per plans). Now that side sits flat on the workbench but if we turn our completed rudder over it has a twist and slight rock.
This is because the trailing edge is a constant thickness but the leading edge is tapered. To fix this we should have jigged the trailing edge at the bottom end by 9mm before we riveted then applied the tape TE adhesive.
Can anyone else please post how their RV-14 rudders sit for both sides up when on a flat bench?
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  #20  
Old 02-24-2014, 04:32 PM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by agirard7a View Post
3m 5200 is a polyurethane base permanent,
Flexible, paintable adhesive. I would not recommend
this product if you think you will ever need to remove
Or seperate what is being bonded.

I have seen cases with wood bonded to fiberglass, completely
distroyed the fiberglass when it was separated, not to mention
the wood. It bonds extremely well to metal. If you scuff and clean
The surface with alcohol, naphtha, lacquer thinner, or acetone. Same as you
would prep for proseal.

I used it on my flap trailing edges, clecoed to a straight work bench, combined with back riveting
On a long steel plate that I bought from harbour freight.
The result was great. Dead nut straight and strong.

This is an alternative to using proseal. It's one part,
cures faster, comes in a small tube for 6 bucks and in my opinion
A better product for the application. Make sure to get the quick cure!
Would this be okay to use on the foam ribs in the elevator and trim tab? Thinking this would be a lot easier to use then prosealing all those parts together.

Thanks,

Jim
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