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  #1  
Old 01-10-2014, 01:36 PM
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digidocs digidocs is offline
 
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Question Painting 001?

I have no clue about paint, not even 101 level, this is the basement--- painting 001.

I'm getting close to the point where I need to paint the interior of my RV-10. I've read all sorts of suggestions--- appliance paint, Rustoleum Professional, Jetflex WR, Polane 700R. Some use epoxy primer, some rattle can self-etching, some none at all. What I could really use is some help with the basics so I can begin to parse all of this information.

Question 1:
I'd at least like to consider a mostly painted interior (as opposed to panels/upholstery). Can one do a good long term job with a spray can products? There's a lot of interior to see in an RV-10, what will it look like after 10 years of wear and tear?

Question 2:
Crazy as it may sound, my entire workshop is 18x11 feet. I can't even get the fuselage outside without knocking down my neighbor's fence. I do have great lighting, the ability to hang plastic from the ceiling, and a compressor that will do 6.5 cfm at 40psi. It seems like I could (just) spray Jetflex WR or similar with this setup. Does that seem accurate? Would I need some sort of water removal device and a respirator, too? Can I use one of the low cost HF guns?

Question 3:
What else should I be asking here? I am at the point where I don't know what I don't know.

Thanks for the help,
David
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2014, 01:49 PM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
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I can't help with the paint types, since my RV-12 has minimal interior that will show after the interior panels are installed. So I used a self-etching (NAPA) primer, then top-coated with a gloss white appliance epoxy paint, via rattle can.

But I can tell you that the HVLP HF guns work fantastic. I have used them for many other projects, where I needed an actual paint gun. I have NEVER had a problem with a HF gun, and have always achieved great results. I don't know how they'd do for an exterior final paint scheme, but for the interior? An inexpensive HF gun would be very sufficient if you go with a sprayable paint (other than via rattle can).
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  #3  
Old 01-10-2014, 01:59 PM
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KTM520guy KTM520guy is offline
 
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Jet Flex is easy to apply and the HF spray gun will work great for it. When you spray Jet Flex it may not look great right after you spray but give it a little time and it will lay down and look nice.

Nothing good comes out of a spray can.
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2014, 02:28 PM
fixnflyguy fixnflyguy is offline
 
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Default Jet Flex

I second the Jet Flex..water based, good durability, and easy touch up with small foam roller. Just dont try to apply any petroleum/solvent based paint over it. My RV-4 side panels and floor have taken a beating.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2014, 03:00 PM
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XOverZero XOverZero is offline
 
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Default Amazing timing!

I just finished my first paint session a few minutes ago, and am waiting for it to dry as I write this. Same story, shooting interior. Bruce Hill is one of the builders on this forum and may elect to chime in. He convinced me to use the JetFlex WR with an HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. That's how he did his 9A and it looks excellent in every way. I decided to use the same in order to bias the odds in my favor as much as possible.

All I can do at this point is echo the others who've already said both the paint and the gun are simple and easy to use. HF item number is 69705. The paint instructions say to use DI water but distilled will work just the same. Try to shoot at around 70 to 75 F, medium humidity.

I started with a test piece first. Bought some inexpensive Rustoleum primer for it. It served the dual purpose of allowing me to fiddle with thinning using cheap paint so I could get the right viscosity for the gun by trial and error. Having done that, I reduced the Jet Flex to the same thickness.

If there's anyone in your local EAA chapter who is competent painter, I'd suggest getting in touch with him.

Best of luck, David!
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2014, 09:11 AM
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bret bret is offline
 
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On mine I did epoxy primer and acrylic enamel on the interior. 100 X tougher than rattle can. From all the crawling around working in the fuse It is holding up very well, still shinny glossy white.
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2014, 11:17 AM
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N9331v N9331v is offline
 
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Default Jet Flex

I also did Jet Flex, very easy to work with and very durable. Like others said it levels out very nice overnight.
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2014, 01:30 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is online now
 
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Yes, please wear a respirator. If you go to a polyurethane you'll want a fresh air hood.
Be prepared for overspray to make a mess of your workspace, unless you can fab a paint booth.
Anything will stick to the fiberglass roof. Painting metal needs more prep work.
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2014, 06:02 PM
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bret bret is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTurner View Post
Yes, please wear a respirator. If you go to a polyurethane you'll want a fresh air hood.
Be prepared for overspray to make a mess of your workspace, unless you can fab a paint booth.
Anything will stick to the fiberglass roof. Painting metal needs more prep work.
+ 1 on the respirator protection. ISOs are a sensitizer, as in making your body shut down and close up. Anaphylactic shock has and will kill you. Reports of the wife walking into the garage seeing the husband dead from painting!

The nose only respirator has a protection factor of 10. The full face has a PF of 50. Look at the MSDS and calculate how long you can be in that environment.

I am not giving any advise. but this is how I did my paint with the BAD stuff. Full paint suit, nitrel gloves, full face 3M mask with organic filters, hood, full ventilated paint booth. If you are doing clear, you will be in a cloud of bad stuff that wants to kill you! The best method would to have a fresh air hood, but I survived with the above mentioned method. YMMV!
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  #10  
Old 01-12-2014, 11:30 PM
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digidocs digidocs is offline
 
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I want to thank everyone who has responded so far. I was really hoping that I could get away with something easier than Jetflex, but it sounds that's the way to go.

Here goes nothing!
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