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  #1  
Old 12-31-2013, 03:24 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Default Are skins necessary here?

RV-10, section 29-13, step #6. This is where you drill the forward side skins to the longerons. Immediately after match drilling the longerons to the side skins you match drill the pre-drilled holes in the firewall gusset up from the bottom and into the longeron. This is very similar to a previous step which I messed up royally (discussed recently here).

How on earth do you do this? There's no access and you can't even see the pre-drilled holes. The skins are supposed to stay on until page 29-14, step #1 (several steps away). Maybe they're intended to help keep things aligned. I don't know. I'm just not seeing how any of the following steps can be done with these skins cleco'ed in place. What am I missing here? I'm really, really trying to avoid another 8 hour do-over.

I'm thinking drill the longerons to the skins, then clamp real tight to the gusset (as the plans say) and just remove the skins now rather than later. Comments?
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  #2  
Old 12-31-2013, 03:42 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Joe,
I am not seeing the issue with access. Which specific step are you referring.
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  #3  
Old 12-31-2013, 03:54 PM
BigD BigD is offline
 
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Patrick Kelly did what I think I did - just used a longer bit. you can get it into the gusset hole by feel/with mirror, and bend the bit as it goes to keep the hole fairly straight. I didn't see and drill chuck rubs on the skins below (like in some other places). I also grabbed the air drill with a regular length bit and there seems to be room to drill that way too. To answer your question, though, once it's clamped I don't think loosening up the skin down below to improve access is going to move things. You can outline it with a sharpie and check before commencing to drill.

==dave==
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Old 12-31-2013, 03:55 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton View Post
Joe,
I am not seeing the issue with access. Which specific step are you referring.
Starting in the 2nd half of step #6, page 29-13, where you match the longeron to the gusset.

Here's a picture. The right side of the pic is the firewall. The left side is the skin. You can see the longeron resting on the gusset. The holes are pre-drilled in the gusset and you drill into the longeron from below. How can I get a drill in there? How can I even see what I'm doing if I could get a drill in there? Yes, I can get a 90 degree drill and a mirror, but that's how I messed it all up in that previous step I mentioned.

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  #5  
Old 12-31-2013, 03:55 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Joe,
I assume you have the 6" and 12" bits, what type of air drill are you using? You should be able to get the drill in there, especially using a long bit and holding it in you hand to allow it to bend
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Last edited by Bill.Peyton : 12-31-2013 at 04:00 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-31-2013, 04:01 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton View Post
Joe,
I assume you have the 6" and 12" bits
I do. But still, you can't see what you're doing and going by feel is a recipe for disaster (for me, at least) - maybe that's the best way. .... But then there's the next few steps which seem completely impossible with the skins in place.
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2013, 04:06 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Joe, all you need are a couple of holes cleco'd, then you can remove the pieces and finish the remaining holes. Use a mirror to see what you are doing. Maybe a helper would make it easier.
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2013, 04:28 PM
jwilbur jwilbur is offline
 
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Default skins?

So let me get back to the skins part of the question. Does anyone know of a reason why NOT to remove the skins now (29-13, step#6)? After the longerons are matched to the skins there doesn't appear to be any reason to leave them on (assuming I clamp the longeron to the gusset real good), despite the fact that the plans don't have you remove them until 29-14, step #1. Am I missing something?
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2013, 10:35 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
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I used as Bill mentioned...a very small air drill, a sharp lubricated 12" bit, eyeballed it perpendicular to pieces, manually kept bend in drill bit and drilled away. I used masking tape anywhere a drill chuck may touch. I followed the plans and fortunately only had some scrap brake/fuel tubing in the end. There is a knack to it. Wish I was closer to help you.
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  #10  
Old 01-01-2014, 12:56 PM
Fracrat Fracrat is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Loganville ga
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Default Template

I'm not here yet stiLl on section 28. Do you think you could make a template on a scrap then transfer to the longeron?
Just thinking out loud.
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