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  #1  
Old 12-20-2013, 06:27 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midland, mi
Posts: 962
Default Fuel Tank Question

I have been reading up on the process to build the fuel tanks.

Are any people following the "fay sealing" process versus the plans? I assume that the plans are not the same. Essentially put all the proseal in place with cleacos, allow the glue to setup for a while up to a several days, the wet set the rivets.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...roseal+channel


Ken
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  #2  
Old 12-20-2013, 07:55 PM
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KCBerner KCBerner is offline
 
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Location: Burleson, TX
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Default

I will be starting the tanks this weekend and plan on following the method Rick described.
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2014, 11:19 PM
TomRoberts23 TomRoberts23 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Medford, NJ
Posts: 17
Default So How Did the Fay-Sealing Work

I am starting to assemble my tanks. I would like to know how the Fay-seal process worked out?
Tom Roberts
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2014, 11:26 PM
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BSwayze BSwayze is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Molalla, Oregon
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On my 7A I built my fuel tanks both ways. Built the first one by the plans, the second one using faye sealing. I HIGHLY recommend going with faye sealing! Much less messy, easier, and the results are fantastic. You can check my wing build section on my website for more info and lots of pictures. I'm sure it's similar to what the RV-14 will be.
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2014, 06:13 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
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Tested my first tank yesterday (I used the cleco over night method) and so far only the fuel cap leaked. I tightened it and after four hrs the manometer only increased by a 1/4 inch. I was applying soapy water and I think it cooled the tank. After drying off the level raised.
I'll probably regret this post as I'm about to go back out to the hangar and do a check.
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  #6  
Old 02-09-2014, 06:39 AM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
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Location: Midland, mi
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I am fay sealing everything on the tanks. I figure if you can fay seal the ribs, then why not the rest of the parts. The bigger reason is that I got all the tank stiffeners in place on one tank and ran out of proseal. I figured that I would just bring all the parts in the house to cure, then I will wet rivet later.
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2014, 03:46 PM
HeliCooper HeliCooper is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 255
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Is everyone using Van's tank sealant or are you using the more expensive old proseal?
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  #8  
Old 02-10-2014, 07:16 AM
Iluke Iluke is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 133
Default Fay sealing the read baffle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
I have been reading up on the process to build the fuel tanks.

Are any people following the "fay sealing" process versus the plans? I assume that the plans are not the same. Essentially put all the proseal in place with cleacos, allow the glue to setup for a while up to a several days, the wet set the rivets.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...roseal+channel


Ken
I just finished both my tanks using the fay sealing, wet rivet method and they both passed air test with no leaks. I went even one step farther than some others and fay-sealed the rear baffle. I'd read about too many rear baffle leaks and decided to go overboard. I "buttered" the contact areas of both the baffle and the skins with a thin brushed-on coat of sealant, and then also added the "bead just forward of the rivet holes" called for in the plans.

The plans warn about "pillowing" if you get too much sealant between the baffle and the skin, so I used my seaming pliers to squeeze out the excess while still in clecos.

As final insurance that my generous use of sealant didn't present any fit-up problems later, I temporarily installed each tank after riveting while still wet.

I'm very happy with the results. No leaks, tanks that bolt-up with no interference. Probably added a few OZ of weight that I didn't need to, but it seemed like a good trade-off.

I'll paste in a couple of pictures since I don't have a builder's web site.







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  #9  
Old 02-10-2014, 09:22 AM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
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Default +1 Rick's method..

..and I did 4 tanks, all of which are supposedly leak free. However, I'm not flying yet. Seemed to work real well if you time it right (i.e. DON'T let the proseal completely cure before riveting.)
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  #10  
Old 02-10-2014, 09:25 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
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I'm certainly no expert but I question using the seaming pliers to squeeze out proseal. You would not want the skins to pillow back out to where they were before the seaming pliers as you could have a leak. I would allow the clecoes to squeeze what they can and then rivet, but that's just my opinion.
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