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  #21  
Old 11-05-2013, 10:17 AM
Clint B Clint B is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Hot Springs SD
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The heat muff and exhaust pipe underneath it, are something that needs to be inspected every condition inspection. This does not require taking off the through rods and end plates, just take of the hose clamps and slide the shroud off, or open it up enough to take it off. This is very easy to do.
On another related note, the heat muff end plates need to be tight! if they can wiggle around, they will wear a groove in the pipe and if left long enough, can wear a hole through the pipe. We have had to replace a number of pipes over the years because of this.
Clint Busenitz /Vetterman Exhaust
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  #22  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:20 AM
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rv7boy rv7boy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
Am I the only one who's (slightly warped) brain throws the suffix "weld" onto the thread title???
No, Mike, you're not the only one. My brain also wants to read it as "...an engine overhaul with JB WELD"

But hey! It's the other Mike's thread, so he can title it anything he wants to, as far as I'm concerned. I'm just enjoying reading about it, and I'm glad he's posting his engine overhaul, so we can see what's involved. It's definitely a learning experience.
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RV-7 Wings
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it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." Miriam Beard
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  #23  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:22 AM
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Kahuna Kahuna is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Hill, NC25
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Default Ignition wires

As I pulled off the ignition wires, I gave them an inspection. They looked ok. A little grease and grime on a few. I own a workhorse, not a beauty queen. I could see one coil to ignition wire connection that showed corrosion and evidence of some arching, hidden by the boot of course. No evidence of any issues on this cylinder.
My top wires have been on since day one. Bottom wires have less. My bottom plug wire lengths are custom lengths. This due to mounting the coils on the engine mount and having each wire, well different lengths.
A call to Klaus revealed that his maintenance schedule, now published in a more current doc version online that I had from years ago, says replace these wires at 500hrs or 10 years. I had not ever considered this before. Hmmm. Well he is a pretty smart guy, so I ordered a new set. My average cost on these is $19.25 each. For 12 plugs this stung a little.


Plugs, I ve been going on the cheap for these using the BR8ES plugs at ~$2 each from day one. These have preformed well and last about 200 hours before they are worn and need replacement. I guess 'performed well' is an unknown. Engine runs, plugs fire and are reliable... I have no idea as to performance. Klaus recommended a fancier plug, a IK27 iridium plug that is a... wait for it... $15 each. Im going to give them a try. Ill have no way of determining any performance difference other than plug life which Ill be able to measure. They will need to last 1500 hours to break even. Thats probably not a reasonable request of any plug.

Why wires need replacement? Im sure there is some electrical reason. I have cars with the original plug wires that are 15 years old and 150k miles. I of course have no way to measure any kind of deterioration of these. My mind says that a plug that fires is a plug and wire that are working. I'm sure its more complicated than that. A wires ability to carry this power surely degrades over time. An appreciable amount? I dunno. I don't race. I dont measure my performance to a nat hair. from Klaus "If you cruise at less than full throttle, you might not notice any wire degradation for a long time. At WOT you should see a performance increase when you change wires, even after 300 hrs." Like I said, Klaus is a pretty smart guy and has been doing this for a long time. So a new set of fancy plugs and wires it is. Seems unethical to install age old plug wires onto a new motor. My thinks my motor might protest.

Note: Picture. The plugs come in the proper packaging. I pulled them out to gap them and prepare for installing into the motor.
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Gold Hill, NC25
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  #24  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:29 AM
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Kahuna Kahuna is offline
 
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Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7boy View Post
No, Mike, you're not the only one. My brain also wants to read it as "...an engine overhaul with JB WELD"

But hey! It's the other Mike's thread, so he can title it anything he wants to, as far as I'm concerned. I'm just enjoying reading about it, and I'm glad he's posting his engine overhaul, so we can see what's involved. It's definitely a learning experience.
Oh. Im sorry about that. I saw Mikes note about welding and I thought it had something to do with welding my exhaust. NOW I get what he was saying. And since I HATE it when people title a thread to sensationalize to get people to pay attention to an otherwise boring piece, Ill change that now. I assure you I did not want anyone thinking that I was trying to play with thread titles to get people to pay attention. Its not my style.
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  #25  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:33 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna View Post
I HATE it when people title a thread to sensationalize to get people to pay attention to an otherwise boring piece, Ill change that now. I assure you I did not want anyone thinking that I was trying to play with thread titles to get people to pay attention. Its not my style.
Mike, my comment was actually directed at myself-------nothing wrong with the thread title at all. I just see some things a bit off kilter
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

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  #26  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:57 AM
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Jerry Fischer Jerry Fischer is offline
 
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Location: Winder Ga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna View Post
As I pulled off the ignition wires, I gave them an inspection. They looked ok. A little grease and grime on a few. I own a workhorse, not a beauty queen. I could see one coil to ignition wire connection that showed corrosion and evidence of some arching, hidden by the boot of course. No evidence of any issues on this cylinder.
My top wires have been on since day one. Bottom wires have less. My bottom plug wire lengths are custom lengths. This due to mounting the coils on the engine mount and having each wire, well different lengths.
A call to Klaus revealed that his maintenance schedule, now published in a more current doc version online that I had from years ago, says replace these wires at 500hrs or 10 years. I had not ever considered this before. Hmmm. Well he is a pretty smart guy, so I ordered a new set. My average cost on these is $19.25 each. For 12 plugs this stung a little.


Plugs, I ve been going on the cheap for these using the BR8ES plugs at ~$2 each from day one. These have preformed well and last about 200 hours before they are worn and need replacement. I guess 'performed well' is an unknown. Engine runs, plugs fire and are reliable... I have no idea as to performance. Klaus recommended a fancier plug, a IK27 iridium plug that is a... wait for it... $15 each. Im going to give them a try. Ill have no way of determining any performance difference other than plug life which Ill be able to measure. They will need to last 1500 hours to break even. Thats probably not a reasonable request of any plug.

Why wires need replacement? Im sure there is some electrical reason. I have cars with the original plug wires that are 15 years old and 150k miles. I of course have no way to measure any kind of deterioration of these. My mind says that a plug that fires is a plug and wire that are working. I'm sure its more complicated than that. A wires ability to carry this power surely degrades over time. An appreciable amount? I dunno. I don't race. I dont measure my performance to a nat hair. from Klaus "If you cruise at less than full throttle, you might not notice any wire degradation for a long time. At WOT you should see a performance increase when you change wires, even after 300 hrs." Like I said, Klaus is a pretty smart guy and has been doing this for a long time. So a new set of fancy plugs and wires it is. Seems unethical to install age old plug wires onto a new motor. My thinks my motor might protest.

Note: Picture. The plugs come in the proper packaging. I pulled them out to gap them and prepare for installing into the motor.
Somewhere in the recesses of this old brain, an instructor in Radar Fundamentals in the US Navy explained: any conductor or insulator exposed to high voltage, especially in harsh environments break down and lose their ability to conduct/insulate as when brandy new. Ask me how I know So Klaus probably had the same info somewhere along the line.
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  #27  
Old 11-05-2013, 01:38 PM
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rv7boy rv7boy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna View Post
Oh. Im sorry about that. I saw Mikes note about welding and I thought it had something to do with welding my exhaust. NOW I get what he was saying. And since I HATE it when people title a thread to sensationalize to get people to pay attention to an otherwise boring piece, Ill change that now. I assure you I did not want anyone thinking that I was trying to play with thread titles to get people to pay attention. Its not my style.
Aw, Mike, now I'm kinda sorry I mentioned it. I didn't think you were trying to sensationalize your thread. And by the way, I don't think anything you've ever posted here is boring. You are one of the most "un-boring" guys I've ever met. Keep the action going!
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Don Hull
RV-7 Wings
KDCU Pryor Field
Pilots'n Paws Pilot
N79599/ADS-B In and Out...and I like it!

?Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights;
it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living." Miriam Beard
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  #28  
Old 12-11-2013, 07:52 AM
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Kahuna Kahuna is offline
 
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Location: Gold Hill, NC25
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One expensive item found was damage to the rods. JB believes that the original engine builder did not use the correct socket when installing and put scratches in the face of the rods where the bolts seat. Magnaflux shows stress risers. This puts all rods into the junk category. Argh! A very expensive problem fixed with new rods. You cant see much in the pictures, but here they are.


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6A, S8 ,
Gold Hill, NC25
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  #29  
Old 12-11-2013, 08:11 AM
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Kahuna Kahuna is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Hill, NC25
Posts: 2,400
Default Crankshaft

The crankshaft was serviced by ECI. Flange Cad Plated, crankshaft .003 under on mains, .006 on pins, Shaft runout is less than .001 front to back... "This shaft is better than new!" says JB. This is OUTSTANDING news!




The crank is also Dynamically Spin Balanced. Counterweights Matched Weights.



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Gold Hill, NC25

Last edited by Kahuna : 12-11-2013 at 08:26 AM.
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  #30  
Old 12-11-2013, 08:32 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Kahuna the way you check plug wire condition is to hook an ohmmeter up to them then stretch and twist the wire and see if the resistance changes.
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