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12-06-2013, 10:25 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southeast
Posts: 663
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Riveting VS rear spar
Countersink or not. The VS rear spar flange, the lower rivet holes, below the skin, plans state you use AN 470 rivets. A neighbor who built a RV10 recommends countersinking and using the 426's for the hole below the skin. He said you have better shear strength. I called Vans are their technician said stay with the plans. Has anyone countersunk those holes. What are your recommendations.
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12-06-2013, 12:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 659
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Stick with the plans.
__________________
www.N1017H.com
Tim Huneycutt, Capt, NCANG
PC-12 Pilot
N1017H RV-10 Flying 2019
EAA #: 1106970
2020 VAF Dues Paid!
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12-06-2013, 04:11 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,797
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You get better shear strength when you nest 2 dimpled pieces together. That doesn't happen with counter sinking. What is happening is you're taking metal out of the spar.
Stick with the plans on anything structural, unless you are certain of what you're doing.
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12-06-2013, 08:19 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Monterrey, Mexico
Posts: 121
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dimple
Quote:
Originally Posted by majuro15
Stick with the plans.
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+1
specially the spars which are, for obvious reasons, structural components.
__________________
Miguel Vidal
EAA #1133587
RV-8 SB Wings in Monterrey, Mexico
N511MV Registered
MyKitLog
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12-07-2013, 05:50 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southeast
Posts: 663
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I'm sticking with the plans, thanks.
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12-14-2013, 01:33 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 421
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Stick with the plans.
__________________
Dennis
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06-01-2014, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Seattle
Posts: 323
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VS rear spar countersink question..
The plans (RV-14) call for countersinking the VS rear spar doubler to attach it to the (dimpled) rear spar. As a first-time builder I'm trying to get the correct countersink depth on the rear spar doubler. I'm practicing on scrap Aluminum.
When I use the manual's instructions on countersink depth (7 clicks beyond the flush rivet-head depth) and test fit the dimple into the countersink, the dimple is a long way from being fully into the countersink. When I put the rivet in and set it, then hold up the pieces to the light, there's still a small gap between the 2 sheets, the countersink is just too shallow to absorb the dimple. In fact, it's obvious that the amount of material in the dimple won't all fit into the small countersink volume, and the dimple material which won't be absorbed into the countersink will just serve to push the 2 surfaces apart. Again, as a first-time builder, excuse my ignorance, but I want to be sure the 2 surfaces are in good contact, which would seem a strict requirement for structural reasons.
What am I missing?
PS When I fit 2 dimpled surfaces together, the dimples still don't nest completely, but the riveting process seems to cinch things up nicely, not so in the countersink case.
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06-02-2014, 02:36 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
Posts: 1,065
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Depth depends on the thickness of the dimpled sheet. I made some dimpled gauges of various materials (015, 020, 032) and used them to test the fit of my countersinks.
__________________
Paul
Mercy Air, White River FAWV
RV-10 ZU-IIZ - "Zeus"
Building Bearhawk Bravo - RV-18 not available
2019 Donation Made
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