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11-08-2013, 10:50 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 133
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Fuel Tank riveting technique
I'm about to start sealing up my RV-7 fuel tanks, beginning with the stiffeners, and I'd appreciate a bit of advice from those who've done it before. Specifically, did you back rivet the stiffeners or cleko them first and shoot the conventionally with gun and bucking bar?
The reason I'm asking is that I've read it is important to get parts fully seated in the proseal before riveting. Several folks advise that 100% clecoing the ribs and the bulkhead before riveting is important to get the right "squeeze out" of proseal. Is this a concern for the stiffeners or does back riveting them do the trick?
thanks
-Ivan
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Ivan Luke
Hope Valley, RI
RV-7 SB
Just hung the engine!
2020 dues paid
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11-08-2013, 11:12 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 88
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Ivan,
Probably the most famous thread on this general topic is Tip: Proseal ...The fact and the fiction. I'm not there yet on my build but Rick Galati is an acknowledged expert.
- John
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11-08-2013, 11:29 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL KCLW
Posts: 1,281
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I backriveted my stiffeners with no issues. Both my takes tested leak free although I haven't flown yet. Given that, my only additional advice to the very good advice out there is to spare no pro-seal. The insides of my tanks are not as pretty as some I see, but my goal is to never see them again, so I could care less. I covered the entire rib flanges with pro seal, not just the rivet heads. The pro-seal gets bad, might as well use it all. Time will tell but I'm pretty sure I won't have leak issues. It's a messy job but not hard.
Chris
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Chris Johnson
RV-9A - Done(ish) 4/5/16! Flying 4/7/16
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11-08-2013, 08:31 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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I had more problems trying to back rivet the stiffeners due to the slippery-ness of the proseal. I ended up just bucking them with the mushroom set and tungsten bar. It does help to let the proseal tack up for a day, then come back and shoot the rivets. Just be sure to keep everything super clean, and put a dab of fresh proseal in the rivet holes before you shoot the rivets.
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11-09-2013, 07:23 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: League city, TX
Posts: 544
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Ivan,
Plus one on Ricks thread on tank sealing. I just completed both tanks using the "Fay sealing" method that he discusses and it's a real game changer. No need to slop around in tank sealant. I leak tested my tanks to 1.5 psi for two days with no leaks. Get plenty of gloves ready and I found that 60cc syringes worked best for laying down nice 3/16" beads. Check out my builders log for plenty of pics. Another great resource is Bruce Swayze's builders log found here on the VAF.
Good luck!
__________________
Mark Malone, RV7
Wings complete, SB 14 complied with, canopy and cowling in progress, Up on the gear.
N442MM reserved
http://www.mykitlog.com/MikeMike
2020 Donation gladly paid..
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11-09-2013, 10:12 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh
I had more problems trying to back rivet the stiffeners due to the slippery-ness of the proseal. I ended up just bucking them with the mushroom set and tungsten bar. It does help to let the proseal tack up for a day, then come back and shoot the rivets. Just be sure to keep everything super clean, and put a dab of fresh proseal in the rivet holes before you shoot the rivets.
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I found that firmly holding the nylon part of the rivet set with your other hand worked well to stop it slipping and sliding...
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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