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09-03-2013, 08:37 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverEagle2
340 total will take care of both RV-7 tanks!
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I'll be ok then... only building one tank (and wing) at a time due to space constraints. Thanks!
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09-04-2013, 11:02 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
Posts: 1,031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N427EF
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Just like my sister who rocks at cake decorating ... the parchment cone is an awesome idea. Are proseal "roses" and other flowers considered acceptable practice?
__________________
Bill Bencze
N430WB RV-7 #74152 @ KHAF, tip-up; IO-360-M1B; Hartzell CS. !! Phase 1 !!
2357 hrs over 8.5 years to get to flying. Log at: http://rv7.wbencze.com
VAF 2020 donation happily made
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09-05-2013, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,428
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Never done any cake decorating.... How do you use that thing? Squeeze from the top?
Dave
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09-05-2013, 08:20 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 391
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parchment paper application
Roll a square of parchment paper into a cone with a tight apex and a wider (3-4") top; a paper clip can hold this shape while loading it with icing/proseal. I'll leave it to an expert to drill, deburr, and cleco paper... Allow room at the top to seal the cone.
Remove paper clip/cleco, fold top of the cone over the contents, and keep folding down, pushing the contents toward the apex. Think of rolling a tube of toothpaste from the closed end toward the opening.
If required, snip off the apex until it's large enough to dispense the required bead.
Rosettes, as well as decorative beads of proseal, can be made by cutting the apex into a scalloped edge before dispensing.
YMMV.
__________________
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VAF dues paid though exempt
RV-9A sold (I miss that bird!)
RV10 sold (miss that one too!)
RV-14A build underway
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10-08-2013, 10:13 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Colesville, MD
Posts: 33
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RV-10 J Channel
I am preparing to start prosealing my tanks and plan to use the method outlined by Rick in this thread, but a difference between the tanks in the -6 or -8 and the -10 is the addition of a J-channel in the tanks for added stability. This appears to pose an additional challenge of putting a filet on the J-channel and attempting to slide it into location without making a huge proseal mess. Has anyone else with a -10 tried this method? What were your results? Any tips? Thanks.
__________________
Keith Nusbaum
Silver Spring, MD
RV-10 --> Finish Kit
N879GW (reserved)
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11-02-2013, 07:18 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kentucky Lakes area in KY
Posts: 947
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Great Thread But?
I have half a quart of proseal left, that has been kept in the refrigerator and is almost 3 year old now. It looks good. Any thought about using it, or do I need a new batch to a small tank job?
__________________
2013- RV12, Kit #119. N123M First flight Nov21. It's a keeper!
1998- RV-9 tail kit, built and sold
1989- RV-6 tail kit, built and sold
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11-02-2013, 09:31 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,673
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I have the same question. I have half a can of 5 year old and 8 year old flamemaster (proseal). The 8 year is a little thicker and would be harder to mix up. Both have been in the shop fridge for years and occasionally used lately. I take it out of the fridge the day before to allow it to come up to room temp and soften. So far I have only used this "old stuff" as a non critical adhesive and I kept the leftovers to see how well it cures. Turns out it cures just like I remember it did when it was new. SO...other than being a little stiffer to mix up, why the relatively short expiry date on the can? Can this 5 year old stuff be used to seal the inboard tank covers, or do I need to order another can? If it cures, it cures. Or is there something I'm missing here? Remember is has been in the fridge all this time.
Bevan
__________________
RV7A Flying since 2015
O-360-A1F6 (parallel valve) 180HP
Dual P-mags
Precision F.I. with AP purge valve
Vinyl Wrapped Exterior
Grand Rapids EFIS
Located in western Canada
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11-03-2013, 05:18 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kentucky Lakes area in KY
Posts: 947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bevan
I have the same question. I have half a can of 5 year old and 8 year old flamemaster (proseal). The 8 year is a little thicker and would be harder to mix up. Both have been in the shop fridge for years and occasionally used lately. I take it out of the fridge the day before to allow it to come up to room temp and soften. So far I have only used this "old stuff" as a non critical adhesive and I kept the leftovers to see how well it cures. Turns out it cures just like I remember it did when it was new. SO...other than being a little stiffer to mix up, why the relatively short expiry date on the can? Can this 5 year old stuff be used to seal the inboard tank covers, or do I need to order another can? If it cures, it cures. Or is there something I'm missing here? Remember is has been in the fridge all this time.
Bevan
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I would think that you could thin it with a little MEK, but I have no experience. Surely the MEK would evaporate. It is just being used as a vehicle to get the proseal mixed well, and in place. Hope some of the gurus pipe in here!!
Tom
__________________
2013- RV12, Kit #119. N123M First flight Nov21. It's a keeper!
1998- RV-9 tail kit, built and sold
1989- RV-6 tail kit, built and sold
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11-03-2013, 05:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kentucky Lakes area in KY
Posts: 947
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Has anyone tried thinning proseal??
__________________
2013- RV12, Kit #119. N123M First flight Nov21. It's a keeper!
1998- RV-9 tail kit, built and sold
1989- RV-6 tail kit, built and sold
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11-03-2013, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todehnal
I have half a quart of Proseal left, that has been kept in the refrigerator and is almost 3 year old now. It looks good. Any thought about using it, or do I need a new batch to a small tank job?
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Why not mix up a very small amount and let it cure, as a test? If it cures OK, it's probably OK to use. It's safest to use fresh ProSeal, but I've used out of date stuff that was kept in the refrigerator with good results. Your mileage may vary.
Regarding thinning ProSeal, many on this list report good results using MEK. I've used it myself. However, the "proper" thinner is Toluene [aka Toluol]. I generally use "wash grade" Lacquer thinner, as it's about 92% to 95% Toluene. Check the ingredients on any can of lacquer thinner, as the components can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Wash grade lacquer thinner is generally cheaper and is really intended for cleaning, not painting. I buy it at the local auto paint supply store.
Toluene is what the manufacturer uses.
Charlie
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