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  #1  
Old 10-16-2013, 05:18 PM
08FATBOY 08FATBOY is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: STRONGSVILLE OHIO
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Default fuel filler tube

Trying to find the best release agent for the pro seal to fuselage attach point. Would wax paper or plastic wrap work? I read about car wax, oil, not sure what to do. I installed nut plates on filler tube for easy install but don't want to make a mess i can't get apart.


Thanks Rod
120162
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2013, 06:56 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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I did what this guy did in the post below, worked fine, This blog is a great reference.
http://www.schmetterlingaviation.com...s-edition.html
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2013, 07:50 PM
Bruce Russell Bruce Russell is offline
 
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Location: Clayton, GA
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I used the same release wax as I used on the canopy.
-Bruce
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2013, 08:53 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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I gooped it to the fuselage, so I guess I'm in for a real rodeo if I ever have to remove it! :-)
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2013, 09:21 PM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
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Location: Windsor, California
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Default

Shiny packing tape with a coat of wax worked fine for me. Wax paper with a coat of wax should also work -- it worked great on my heater door RTV seal. Just make sure you let the RTV dry for a couple of days before you try to separate the door from the firewall.
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  #6  
Old 10-17-2013, 09:25 AM
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MacPara MacPara is offline
 
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I found that Carnauba wax worked very well with ProSeal. I just applied a thin coat on the sheet where the flange would contact and the nozzle came right off after the ProSeal had cured. Very easy to clean up too.
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  #7  
Old 10-17-2013, 09:49 AM
664781 664781 is offline
 
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Location: Powder Springs, Ga
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Default Wax

I use Johnson Floor Wax on my fiberglass parts as a release agent. Worked great on the filler tube also.
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  #8  
Old 10-17-2013, 12:26 PM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
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Default Just a guess here, but....

I am guessing that all of the folks using a release agent on the filler tube are going E-LSA, and of course have not been able to legally do the split bulkhead mod as of yet?

In other words, use the release agent, and after your certification, if you choose to remove the tank and the filler tube to perform the bulkhead mod, then it's easier to remove the filler nozzle?

Otherwise, I can't see any reason you'd ever need to remove the filler tube/tank if you already had the bulkhead (split) modification completed??????
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  #9  
Old 10-17-2013, 12:52 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txaviator View Post
I am guessing that all of the folks using a release agent on the filler tube are going E-LSA, and of course have not been able to legally do the split bulkhead mod as of yet?

In other words, use the release agent, and after your certification, if you choose to remove the tank and the filler tube to perform the bulkhead mod, then it's easier to remove the filler nozzle?

Otherwise, I can't see any reason you'd ever need to remove the filler tube/tank if you already had the bulkhead (split) modification completed??????
Maybe if you had an unplanned repair to do on the tank?

Skip using release agent you have a high probability of pulling paint right off the interior of the skin (after you fight for a while getting it off).
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  #10  
Old 10-17-2013, 03:03 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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Even with the split bulkhead, there could be something you need to do where you really need to get the tank out. I installed the ADSB box and antenna back there just having the split bulkhead. Maybe the potential adahrs-bracket-stiffening mod that may appear, but I bet that could be done with the split bulkhead too or pressing a child into service...
Remember if you ever take the tank out, add the little bottom connector restrainer thing.
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