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10-14-2013, 01:19 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 115
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cutting the firewall
Does anyone have a good technique for cutting a clean 2" hole in the firewall for the cabin heat fitting? Cutting stainless is always a pain and I see this 2" hole as a real challenge.
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10-14-2013, 01:21 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Yep, it is a real PITA!
I bought two hole saws and lots of cutting oil. Turn the thing slow and keep it lubed and all will be good.
Don't forget to deburr it. SS will cut you like a knife!
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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10-14-2013, 01:45 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 55
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I used a new hole saw and had a helper back it up with a piece of wood. It did a real nice job. And watch your hands, that stuff is sharp!
Ross Scroggs
Locust Grove, GA
RV-4 #3911
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10-14-2013, 01:57 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Edgewater, FL. KSFB
Posts: 1,116
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Since I learned the finer art of drilling I have had no problems with Stainless.
Like Bill sayes slow speed and like Ross sayes back it up so you can put pressure. What tears the bits up is heat. When you use a high speed and low pressure it just causes friction and no cutting. If you can keep the speed down and the pressure up it will cut and create burrs. These burrs take away heat. You just have to keep it cutting.
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10-14-2013, 03:33 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,514
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Knockout punches do a pretty good job with this stainless. Lube it good and it cuts better. HF has a manual set for $25 but the largest is only 1.25". Maybe an industrial rental would have a hydraulic version with 2" included. That makes it very quick and very clean edges.
Wear boning gloves or be ready to bleed. NEVER touch the edge to check the finish.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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10-14-2013, 05:56 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 705
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Lenox
Use a Lenox hole saw blade. Slow speed,pressure and cutting oil.
__________________
Al Girard, Newport, RI
N339AG
RV-9
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10-14-2013, 06:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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Ditto a hole saw, but get a "bimetal" hole saw (as opposed to a cheaper plain steel hole saw, but both should be available at Lowes/HD) and do back it up with wood as suggested. I'm assuming you are doing your cabin heat valve? If so (and assuming you have not yet riveted on your firewall recess), you can clamp a piece of wood to the firewall to serve as the back up. Good luck.
__________________
Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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10-14-2013, 10:24 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 886
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A GreenLee punch worked perfectly. Klein Tools makes one too. Just a few minutes and done.
These are expensive, so look for a set on eBay or borrow/rent a set.
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10-15-2013, 12:26 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: LL10, Naperville, IL.
Posts: 68
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I just used my Dremel.
Stewart Willoughby
6, finishing
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10-15-2013, 10:51 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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Rotabroach or similar ...
Hopefully, you can find a metalworking shop or friend with a set of Rotabroach hole cutters, or similar product. They cut thru the FW stainless like the proverbial hot knife thru butter. Totally amazing...takes maybe 5 to 10 seconds with a battery powered drill motor.
I also used a carbide rotary file (available at all the aviation tool houses) that was verry effective in enlarging holes in the stainless.
__________________
Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
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